Alternator capacity on 2019 FXLR
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Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2024
Posts: 27
Likes: 6
From: USA
What about using the factory battery tender plug to power heated gear? The wiring looks heavy enough, assuming its not just extra insulation and the actual wire is 10 or 12AWG, but the fuse is 7.5W and would need to be 10 or 15W depending on how much gear.
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 518
Likes: 593
From: Central Iowa
I don't have an exact figure to tell you but my guess is your bike has a 40 to 50 amp stator (around 550 to 700 watts) and it's not being taxed very hard by the electrical system. You have a fuel pump running which I'd guess is less than 10, maybe 15 amps at most; all the lights combined is probably less than 10 amps; and about the only other electrical load is modules (ECM, BCM, injectors, speedometer, etc.) which are very low current probably less than a couple of amps. Add all that up, and I was being conservative and guessing on the high side, and I bet you're not using half the stators output.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 6,190
Likes: 2,419
From: USA
That's what I use on my '23 Heritage. No problems, so far. I have no upgraded the fuse either. Gerbing heated jacket liner and gloves.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,528
Likes: 30,847
From: Pennsylvania
It is always best to provide a dedicated fused circuit wire directly to the battery for heated gear as the factory battery tender wiring may have other items on that circuit.
Check your wiring diagram for your bike.
Nothing worse than being in BFE and have your heated gear stop working - a dedicated circuit with a 10W or 15W fuse limits that possibility.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2016
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From: NC
I would not use the "factory" battery tender plug for heated gear. Heck, I dislike how that stock wiring goes through the ECM. I have a direct wire SAE plug for my heated gear. I also have a separate plug for the battery tender attached. I will be adding another plug to run power to the trunk to charge devices.
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Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 518
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From: Central Iowa
Let's do a quick refresher on circuit protection (fuses). The conductors (wire) in a circuit are capable of safely conducting so many amps of current depending on many factors but mainly wire diameter (gauge) and length, the more current they conduct the hotter they get. They're more than capable of carrying enough current to generate enough heat to raise the temperature of the insulation to the ignition point (better known as fire). This is why we have circuit protection in the form of fuses and circuit breakers, they limit the amount of current that can flow to a level well below the point that the wire will burn. That circuit was designed to safely carry so much amperage, and whoever designed it chose 7.5 amps as the safe limit. Now did that person factor in an extra margin of safety and the circuit is actually capable of safely handling more than 7.5 amps? I have no doubt they did, that's pretty standard practice, but if you replace that fuse with a 10 amp (33% more current) you're cutting pretty deep into that margin of safety and increasing the risk of a fire. If your heated gear requires more than 7.5 amps I definitely would not use your existing circuit and just replace the fuse with a higher amperage, I would add one with wire capable of safely handling the current and fuse it appropriately. At most we're talking about a few feet of wire, a couple of connectors, a fuse holder, and maybe an hours work.
Thread Starter
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Intermediate
Joined: Aug 2024
Posts: 27
Likes: 6
From: USA
I have a 2nd gen Warmnsafe heated jacket liner Ive had since 2006 with these specs on high.
7.7Amps
1.9Ohms
106Watts at 13.8V
When I got this 19 FXLR home from the dealer on Saturday and started looking around and removing some bling that the previous owner had installed, I noticed that the battery tender lead was hard wired into the wiring harness. It appears to be 12AWG unless its thinner and just has extra thick insulation. I also noticed that the battery wasnt as easily accessible as most of my previous bikes. Its still fairly easy (after watching a video) just not a 5 minute easy access from the top location. Its getting cold here in the Midwest so I was wondering if I could just plug my jacket liner safely into the tender pigtail for now.
I assumed (bad move) that the battery tender circuit was a stand alone circuit that was wired into the harness at the factory simply for convenience. I didnt know that it went thru the ECM nor that other items were on that circuit so thanks for the heads up on that. I leave the 7.5A fuse as is and not crank the jacket up to high until I wire up a separate coax pigtail. I was also hoping to avoid having 2 separate pigtails hanging out of the side cover. I dont like even having one.
Ill get the service and electrical manuals and study the wiring diagrams shortly. Im just eager to ride the new (to me) bike now and not be cold, This bike doesnt have heated grips so Im debating whether to add them or to get heated gloves (36W).
7.7Amps
1.9Ohms
106Watts at 13.8V
When I got this 19 FXLR home from the dealer on Saturday and started looking around and removing some bling that the previous owner had installed, I noticed that the battery tender lead was hard wired into the wiring harness. It appears to be 12AWG unless its thinner and just has extra thick insulation. I also noticed that the battery wasnt as easily accessible as most of my previous bikes. Its still fairly easy (after watching a video) just not a 5 minute easy access from the top location. Its getting cold here in the Midwest so I was wondering if I could just plug my jacket liner safely into the tender pigtail for now.
I assumed (bad move) that the battery tender circuit was a stand alone circuit that was wired into the harness at the factory simply for convenience. I didnt know that it went thru the ECM nor that other items were on that circuit so thanks for the heads up on that. I leave the 7.5A fuse as is and not crank the jacket up to high until I wire up a separate coax pigtail. I was also hoping to avoid having 2 separate pigtails hanging out of the side cover. I dont like even having one.
Ill get the service and electrical manuals and study the wiring diagrams shortly. Im just eager to ride the new (to me) bike now and not be cold, This bike doesnt have heated grips so Im debating whether to add them or to get heated gloves (36W).