Changing primary fluid
Grand HDF Member
Joined: May 2007
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Cruiser
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 116
Likes: 1
From: South, MS
+1 on the proper seating of the torx..some DA that looked a lot like me did on his previous bike and it took three beers and a lot of cussing to finally get it out.
I fill mine up to the bottom of the derby cover hole. I have a small funnel that I picked up at Wally-World that has a lip on one side (makes it easier to pour into when it's on an angle).
I use Rotella-T in the primary. ~$3/qt at Wally-World, and it's JASCO approved.
Make sure you've got a T-27 Torx bit for the derby screws, and make sure the bit is seated properly. Read too many horror stories about guys stripping the heads on their derby bolts.
I use Rotella-T in the primary. ~$3/qt at Wally-World, and it's JASCO approved.
Make sure you've got a T-27 Torx bit for the derby screws, and make sure the bit is seated properly. Read too many horror stories about guys stripping the heads on their derby bolts.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,384
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From: Out on Deranged
Well, no tighter than they were on when you took them off as a rule of thumb.
Come on are you serious? TEEHEE! you can drain it on the stand with the primary cove still on. I'm sure you get why .
Thought you only need to level the bike draining the oil..topping up can be done on the kick stand .
Last edited by maddghost; Oct 7, 2010 at 08:54 PM.
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From: Southern Oregon
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Banned
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,403
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From: Southwest Florida
I am going to replace the primary fluid on my 08 Fat Bob any tips for a newbie and how do you put the oil into the derby cover with out it spilling out. How much fluid do I put in, was toid a quart to 38 0z.s from the dealer. Whats right? Thanks for the help in advance. Ride safe
Mine's a FXDC so it might be little different, but I kept mine on the jiffy stand and filled it to about where it was ready to overflow. Not quite, but almost. IMO, that's full. They don't all take a full quart. Mine took about 30 ounces. Maybe a little less.
Alternately tighten Derby Cover screws to 84-108 inch lbs. Not sure how critical this is. I used my inch-lb wrench and set it to 100 inch-lbs. It's hard to get a good engagement on the screw head with a right angle tool and a torx bit. I think next time, I'll just use the bit in my screwdriver and torque them by hand. But (hopefully) that will be a while. I got a feeling I'm gonna have to buy new Derby Cover screws when I do it again.
I wanted a new Derby Cover so I put it on when I did the fluid change. It came with decorative, chrome plated stainless screws. I hate stainless. It's too soft.
get some good torqes heads... before you remove your derby cover pop them wiht a punch to loosen the lock tight they will come out faster and easier... also i use ATF in the primary
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