Sears red jack modification
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 6,642
Likes: 48
From: Ogden, UT
Pressure, so it actually rests on the safety locks and not the jack
Thread Starter
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Club Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,483
Likes: 39
From: Passaic County, NJ
The only downside to the mod and/or lifts such as the J&S is that the lift pads are in the way of the isolators. If you are doing a mod such as installing true-track, this is where a wheel chock becomes helpful. You can't lift your bike AND work on the isolators.
A wheel chock and a small automotive jack is necessary in that instance.
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 683
Likes: 3
From: Florida
Did this mod last year
The Sears jack is a good jack (almost identical) but you can get the H.F. one cheaper. Been using my H.F. almost a year now with no problems. Just hold onto the handlebars when you lower it and step on the pedal all the way down.
Here's a good shot of Dyna mod, moves pads to miss the Dyna oil pan which drops down below the frame. Bought grade 8, longer 1/2" dia. bolts (drilled out holes a bit) to move the pads to the 'outside' of the lift frames. Takes maybe 10 mins to do the mod (not including the trip to Ace hardware). You will need a good sharp 1/2" drill bit. Most folks don't but I still use plywood pads to raise it up a bit off pads so it leaves more clearance on clutch cable underneath. Put scrape leather strips on plywood to keep from slipping. Holds good.
If you look at the bottom just inside the rails next to floor, you will see the jagged teeth that the locking bar sets into that the previous posters were talking about. This will keep the jack from settling if the hydraulic leaks down some (mine don't) but should always have the locking bar set.
Here's a good shot of Dyna mod, moves pads to miss the Dyna oil pan which drops down below the frame. Bought grade 8, longer 1/2" dia. bolts (drilled out holes a bit) to move the pads to the 'outside' of the lift frames. Takes maybe 10 mins to do the mod (not including the trip to Ace hardware). You will need a good sharp 1/2" drill bit. Most folks don't but I still use plywood pads to raise it up a bit off pads so it leaves more clearance on clutch cable underneath. Put scrape leather strips on plywood to keep from slipping. Holds good.
If you look at the bottom just inside the rails next to floor, you will see the jagged teeth that the locking bar sets into that the previous posters were talking about. This will keep the jack from settling if the hydraulic leaks down some (mine don't) but should always have the locking bar set.
Last edited by R_W_B; Aug 19, 2011 at 05:20 PM.
Road Captain
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 683
Likes: 3
From: Florida
However since a complete parts list comes with the jack I would imagine if you contacted HR online at their website they could sell you a replacement. Be carefull of how much they want for it since you can just buy a whole new HF jack on sale for $79. Good luck with it.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 5,477
Likes: 5
From: New Braunfels, Texas
I have the big red torin, I bought it used and don't know if it's worth repairing....Maybe I'll buy a new one and use it for parts
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Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 6,642
Likes: 48
From: Ogden, UT
Well, after a day of fun here in DC, I can offer some good news about the stability of the modified Sears lift. I had my bike up on the lift fully raised and locked with the safety lock arms and no straps when the quake hit today.
I thought for sure I would find her on her side in the garage... But no, she stayed on the lift just as she was before the quake. Not bad for a 5.9 quake and a $100.00 lift.
I thought for sure I would find her on her side in the garage... But no, she stayed on the lift just as she was before the quake. Not bad for a 5.9 quake and a $100.00 lift.