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Glad she stayed put for you. That was a pretty good shake you had up there!
Been through worse, but when I remembered my bike was on the lift I certainly thought I would find her on the floor. Doubt that would have been the case with the adapters instead of the mod.
By widening the stance of the jack, where is the contact points on the undercarriage?? The oil pan is right there. Does the jack now span that area - please reply. Thanks
By widening the stance of the jack, where is the contact points on the undercarriage?? The oil pan is right there. Does the jack now span that area - please reply. Thanks
I'm pretty sure the Sears is very similar to the H.F. lift which I have. By moving the lift pads to the outside of the support braces it clears the oil pan. The pads then sit on the rear frame area just under the transmission mount area in rear and just ahead of the oil pan on the front, on the frame tubes.
Scroll up a few posts to see a photo of my jack with the bike on it, it shows this.
By widening the stance of the jack, where is the contact points on the undercarriage?? The oil pan is right there. Does the jack now span that area - please reply. Thanks
The contact points are on the flat portions of the frame now. The jack will pick the bike up underneath the front isolator, and right behind the oil pan.
For my phase II mod, by clamping each channel in a drill press, I was able to easily drift a tight-fitting clearance hole (for the cross-tube) right up against the underside of the channel's top. These tubes were then welded both @ their ends (where they come up against the inside of the channel wall) & also where they pass through the channels' inner walls. It takes all the cantilever (bending) load off the bolts (bolts don't like to bend), leaving them w/ simple shear loads, for which they are well oversize. This virtually eliminates all tendency for the channels to "tip" downward, as the load is applied, and keeps them in plane.
Just curious if 1/2 threaded bar stock cut to fit across from one relocated pad to the other, to effectively tie the two sides of the lift together would help with the lateral stability as well as the shear load. I would think it would distribute the load evenly just as well without welding? (For those of us who are welding challenged)
Just curious if 1/2 threaded bar stock cut to fit across from one relocated pad to the other, to effectively tie the two sides of the lift together would help with the lateral stability as well as the shear load. I would think it would distribute the load evenly just as well without welding? (For those of us who are welding challenged)
You don't need any of that, the lift holds just fine without.
Hell I even lifted my OL's 4200 lb SUV to prove a point. The 2x4 was to add height so the wheel was off the ground, there is absolutely no flex in the frame.
Just curious if 1/2 threaded bar stock cut to fit across from one relocated pad to the other, to effectively tie the two sides of the lift together would help with the lateral stability as well as the shear load. I would think it would distribute the load evenly just as well without welding? (For those of us who are welding challenged)
Hop--You be the judge. If you lift it w/o the reinforcement you can see the channels twist. The welding is non-critical and can be done in 5 minutes. 1/2" allthread would add some stability, but solid bar eliminates the twisting and mitigates the effects of cantilever.
Hog--Though quite strong, for their intended purpose, these lifts are not adequate to safely lift a Suburban, as you imply. Even the much higher rated J&S was destroyed by a fellow member when he jacked up a compact car.