Sears red jack modification
Hop--You be the judge. If you lift it w/o the reinforcement you can see the channels twist. The welding is non-critical and can be done in 5 minutes. 1/2" allthread would add some stability, but solid bar eliminates the twisting and mitigates the effects of cantilever.
Hog--Though quite strong, for their intended purpose, these lifts are not adequate to safely lift a Suburban, as you imply. Even the much higher rated J&S was destroyed by a fellow member when he jacked up a compact car.
Hog--Though quite strong, for their intended purpose, these lifts are not adequate to safely lift a Suburban, as you imply. Even the much higher rated J&S was destroyed by a fellow member when he jacked up a compact car.
So I guess I should have added... Conducted on a closed course by professionals, DO NOT try this at home, death or injury may result....
Did the mod to the HF jack, works great. Thanks for the excellent info! I'm a little concerned about pinching the cable/line shown in photo 2. Should I be concerned? Or no worries? Thanks!
Mod done

Should this be pinching here?
Mod done

Should this be pinching here?
So I put 1/2" plywood spacers on mine before I bring it up. One on each frame tube at front and one below the trans mount area. I also cut strips of leather to keep it from sliding. Bike holds real tight on mine. Here's a pic.
that was the thread that caused me to lift the suv. That said, i would never use the lift for anything more than my bike, i have a 4 ton lift and stands just for my vehicles.
So i guess i should have added... conducted on a closed course by professionals, do not try this at home, death or injury may result....

So i guess i should have added... conducted on a closed course by professionals, do not try this at home, death or injury may result....
For the record, I have grade 8 1/2"x6" bolts and I can assure you there is no flex. We're lifting 650#-700# max.
If you chose to stick with the stock diameter bolt which was in the neighborhood of 11-12mm then you MIGHT see some flex.
I drilled out all necessary holes to accept a 1/2" bolt.
I currently have my bike sitting on the modded lift for well over a week now and it's still in the same position I left it.
As far as the clutch cable is concerned, I experienced the same scenario with it getting pinched between the lift and the motor. I relocated the clutch cable to run along the frame rail so this won't happen again.
If you chose to stick with the stock diameter bolt which was in the neighborhood of 11-12mm then you MIGHT see some flex.
I drilled out all necessary holes to accept a 1/2" bolt.
I currently have my bike sitting on the modded lift for well over a week now and it's still in the same position I left it.
As far as the clutch cable is concerned, I experienced the same scenario with it getting pinched between the lift and the motor. I relocated the clutch cable to run along the frame rail so this won't happen again.
Last edited by SC-Longhair; Nov 5, 2011 at 06:24 PM.
Let's get real here, there is nowhere near enough flex, if any, to be of concern. At least not on the Sears Red Lift, if you are using any other lift, you are on your own, I have not tested any other lift.
You might see a very slight flex, but did you really expect to lift 600 lbs and not have a slight amount of flex, get real if you thought that. There is a certain amount of flex designed into it.
What Vic was referring to was the bolts, there is no flex in those, at least not any you can see with the naked eye.
As you can see in the pic I posted above, even lifting well over 1000 lbs the frame does not flex to any discernible amount.
These lifts will easily hold your bike and then some, but if you do not feel confident in them, do not use them.
Arguing about this is just silly and frankly, pointless.



