Proper termination at the amp screw down terminals
Proper termination at the amp screw down terminals
Okay...question for the gurus:
On the SS PN4.520D (older version) or the Power Acoustik Razor RZ4-2000D, etc. that have the round holes with the screws for Power, Ground and Remote In (and for later SS amps or PA amps, the speaker outputs), what is the proper/preferred/best recommended way to connect the wires to the amp? Should I have some form of ring terminal or blade terminal on these wires (amp end)?
Case in point: I have a Soundstream PN4.520D that has the speaker connector harness and a separate Power/Remote/Ground area that has the round ports with screws on top to tighten to the wires. In my case, my 8 gauge power/ground wires are just stripped back about 1/4", the core is twisted tight and it's pushed into the block then the screw is tightened down into the "loose" wire. Am I supposed to be terminating these power/ground/remote wires with some kind of spade or ring terminal? Same for the speakers (the Razor RZ4-2000D uses the screw-down block for all connections). I ask, because I literally don't know; am I doing this right? Could my method (especially on the ground side) be a reason for the amp popping when the ignition is turned off (or the HU power button is pressed)?
In regards to the "pop" I get when I turn off the bike (or HU), it's through the AMP only (Soundstream PN4.520D); I pulled the RCA inputs, and the pop was gone. I have to check the main chassis ground tomorrow to see how things are there. Currently, I have an 8 gauge wire running from the SS amp's "Ground" connector directly to the battery with the amp side being connected as I originally described. I'm concerned that the power-off pop will damage some/all of my speakers (I have four pairs: BT7P1s in the fairing, BT 471s in lower fairing pods, Pioneer TS-D1602Rs in the TP pods and Pioneer TS-D6902Rs in the HT lids).
Any suggestions/tips would be appreciated.
On the SS PN4.520D (older version) or the Power Acoustik Razor RZ4-2000D, etc. that have the round holes with the screws for Power, Ground and Remote In (and for later SS amps or PA amps, the speaker outputs), what is the proper/preferred/best recommended way to connect the wires to the amp? Should I have some form of ring terminal or blade terminal on these wires (amp end)?
Case in point: I have a Soundstream PN4.520D that has the speaker connector harness and a separate Power/Remote/Ground area that has the round ports with screws on top to tighten to the wires. In my case, my 8 gauge power/ground wires are just stripped back about 1/4", the core is twisted tight and it's pushed into the block then the screw is tightened down into the "loose" wire. Am I supposed to be terminating these power/ground/remote wires with some kind of spade or ring terminal? Same for the speakers (the Razor RZ4-2000D uses the screw-down block for all connections). I ask, because I literally don't know; am I doing this right? Could my method (especially on the ground side) be a reason for the amp popping when the ignition is turned off (or the HU power button is pressed)?
In regards to the "pop" I get when I turn off the bike (or HU), it's through the AMP only (Soundstream PN4.520D); I pulled the RCA inputs, and the pop was gone. I have to check the main chassis ground tomorrow to see how things are there. Currently, I have an 8 gauge wire running from the SS amp's "Ground" connector directly to the battery with the amp side being connected as I originally described. I'm concerned that the power-off pop will damage some/all of my speakers (I have four pairs: BT7P1s in the fairing, BT 471s in lower fairing pods, Pioneer TS-D1602Rs in the TP pods and Pioneer TS-D6902Rs in the HT lids).
Any suggestions/tips would be appreciated.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 6,621
Likes: 412
From: Indianapolis IN.
I'm thinking your connections are fine. In my experience when you get a pop from the amp rather than the speakers and your amp is grounded properly it's typically the amp staying on too long after the radio shuts off. Are you using the remote wire? If so is it going to the lighter or the headlight? Just throwing a couple things out there to check out. This is process of elimination stuff because there are several other issues that cause the amp to pop as well. But most of those are ground related. I think we can all agree it's a PITA to find . . .Those are my thoughts Mike. Hopefully Nutz, Pioneer or AAWAV will jump in.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 14,670
Likes: 139
From: East of the Sun, West of the Moon
Okay...question for the gurus:
On the SS PN4.520D (older version) or the Power Acoustik Razor RZ4-2000D, etc. that have the round holes with the screws for Power, Ground and Remote In (and for later SS amps or PA amps, the speaker outputs), what is the proper/preferred/best recommended way to connect the wires to the amp? Should I have some form of ring terminal or blade terminal on these wires (amp end)?
On the SS PN4.520D (older version) or the Power Acoustik Razor RZ4-2000D, etc. that have the round holes with the screws for Power, Ground and Remote In (and for later SS amps or PA amps, the speaker outputs), what is the proper/preferred/best recommended way to connect the wires to the amp? Should I have some form of ring terminal or blade terminal on these wires (amp end)?
Case in point: I have a Soundstream PN4.520D that has the speaker connector harness and a separate Power/Remote/Ground area that has the round ports with screws on top to tighten to the wires. In my case, my 8 gauge power/ground wires are just stripped back about 1/4", the core is twisted tight and it's pushed into the block then the screw is tightened down into the "loose" wire. Am I supposed to be terminating these power/ground/remote wires with some kind of spade or ring terminal? Same for the speakers (the Razor RZ4-2000D uses the screw-down block for all connections). I ask, because I literally don't know; am I doing this right? Could my method (especially on the ground side) be a reason for the amp popping when the ignition is turned off (or the HU power button is pressed)?
In regards to the "pop" I get when I turn off the bike (or HU), it's through the AMP only (Soundstream PN4.520D); I pulled the RCA inputs, and the pop was gone. I have to check the main chassis ground tomorrow to see how things are there. Currently, I have an 8 gauge wire running from the SS amp's "Ground" connector directly to the battery with the amp side being connected as I originally described. I'm concerned that the power-off pop will damage some/all of my speakers (I have four pairs: BT7P1s in the fairing, BT 471s in lower fairing pods, Pioneer TS-D1602Rs in the TP pods and Pioneer TS-D6902Rs in the HT lids).
Any suggestions/tips would be appreciated.
Any suggestions/tips would be appreciated.
Gannicus: the remote turn on lead is running to the radio (I've swapped yet again; now I've got an HD1BT in there), so the connection is direct from the radio's remote out wire to the amp's remote in terminal.
It's odd; the SS never popped when I had the Sony DSX-S310BTX installed, but when I swapped over to the Razor amp, I started getting the pop, and it's stayed- despite swapping amps and head units!
UltraNutZ: I was thinking I should tin the ends, so that's something I need to accomplish! My bike is a 2011 Street Glide. I also intend to get into the battery compartment and check the chassis ground. I'll pull all the connections, clean them up and reinstall them just in case.
To recap what my stereo system currently consists of:
Soundstream PN4.520D, HD1BT head unit, BT7P1s in the fairing in parallel with BT 471's in the lower fairing pods on the front channel of the amp, Pioneer TS-D6902Rs in the HT lids in parallel with TS-D1602Rs in the HT Tour Pak Pods off the rear channel of the amp. The amp is wired to the battery + and - directly, 8 gauge wire for both leads.
It's odd; the SS never popped when I had the Sony DSX-S310BTX installed, but when I swapped over to the Razor amp, I started getting the pop, and it's stayed- despite swapping amps and head units!
UltraNutZ: I was thinking I should tin the ends, so that's something I need to accomplish! My bike is a 2011 Street Glide. I also intend to get into the battery compartment and check the chassis ground. I'll pull all the connections, clean them up and reinstall them just in case.
To recap what my stereo system currently consists of:
Soundstream PN4.520D, HD1BT head unit, BT7P1s in the fairing in parallel with BT 471's in the lower fairing pods on the front channel of the amp, Pioneer TS-D6902Rs in the HT lids in parallel with TS-D1602Rs in the HT Tour Pak Pods off the rear channel of the amp. The amp is wired to the battery + and - directly, 8 gauge wire for both leads.
Banned
Joined: Feb 2010
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Thats what I figured but the tin part threw me, as I am getting ready to install an amp and speakers I was just covering the bases.
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Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 14,670
Likes: 139
From: East of the Sun, West of the Moon
tinning wire ends is the process of simply melting solder on the tip of a single wire to make it a more solid wire. IMO it's needed on these amps that have screw down terminal connections.
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Road Master
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 830
Likes: 44
From: Illinois
Good way to get rid of the amp pop
Install 5v voltage regulator in between the amp "on" wire from your head unit .
I have done this on most all of my Fords
here is a link
Or if you dont feel like do it yourself then This will work
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...FSEV7AodHhEAtw
It could also be aground loop isolation issue
This will fix that
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_127SNI1...3509025&awdv=c
Install 5v voltage regulator in between the amp "on" wire from your head unit .
I have done this on most all of my Fords
here is a link
Or if you dont feel like do it yourself then This will work
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...FSEV7AodHhEAtw
It could also be aground loop isolation issue
This will fix that
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_127SNI1...3509025&awdv=c
Last edited by Makdaddy; Oct 17, 2014 at 09:23 AM.
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