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Do you guys tin your wires? if so how much solder do you put on? Any tips on removing the stock head unit on a 13 road glide? I am curious on if the head unit comes out towards the front or towards the seat.
Thanks *****
Yeah most of us tin the wires. Just enough solder to keep the wires from fraying.
***** get yourself a 3/8 drive long ball head hex socket set. You will be using the 3/16 socket out of the set. It makes life a whole lot easier getting to the stock radio bolts. After you get the four bolts out you will pull the radio out from the front. Start by pushing it from the back until you can grab it from the front.
Last edited by Gannicus; Dec 30, 2015 at 08:17 AM.
Do you guys tin your wires? if so how much solder do you put on? Any tips on removing the stock head unit on a 13 road glide? I am curious on if the head unit comes out towards the front or towards the seat.
Thanks *****
My rule has always been when soldering two wires together I use just enough to hold tight but not to much where I need to fight with the shrink tube. You don't need much and the shrink tube should slide right over as if it was one wire.
Assuming you're pulling the stocker to install an aftermarket HU, there's a few tricks that can help the install as well.
I installed a kenwood with the BT retro kit and found a great shortcut for RG - the directions have you loosen the 4 nuts for the main radio mounting bracket and then flex the fairing to install the radio from the headlight side. Scared the crap out of me, couldn't believe the fairing didn't crack trying to squeeze the HU in. Instead of that, the backing plate for the install kit and the trim plate for the stereo will easily slide in the faceplate opening (from the gas tank side) and the stereo itself will then slide in from the headlight slide. It's kind of a pain to get the backing plate and trim plate back on, but nowhere near as difficult as screwing with the radio/bracket and flexing the fairing. Way easier and less frustrating for sure. Good luck......
If you don't want to solder/tin the wires and you have screw terminals you can use non-insulated but connectors
12- 16 guage for speaker and 10-12 guage for your power wires.
If you don't want to solder/tin the wires and you have screw terminals you can use non-insulated but connectors
12- 16 guage for speaker and 10-12 guage for your power wires.
never thought of those. pretty secure using those?
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