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UPS shows that my JL amp will be here on Thursday and the DD components will be here on Friday.
In the mean time, I have a few "prep" questions for my speaker set-up and installing them in the factory pods:
...Do I need split the pods and seal them with silicone?
...Do I need to put poly-fill in the pods?
...If so, how much?
...Do the pods need to have a port hole(s) drilled in them?
...If so, how many, what size and where exactly in the pods?
Hope the answers to these questions helps not only me, but other folks getting ready to do a similar install.
In another thread, Tailwind commented "I think you would be in a better spot with the BT Brackets but u can always port (drill a few holes) in the pods to get some air flowing. U will probably need a moderate amount of air movement with the current sets of speaks we r tinkering with." Although I can't find it I believe Haze made a similar comment specifically on the AW6.5s
In another thread, Tailwind commented "I think you would be in a better spot with the BT Brackets but u can always port (drill a few holes) in the pods to get some air flowing. U will probably need a moderate amount of air movement with the current sets of speaks we r tinkering with." Although I can't find it I believe Haze made a similar comment specifically on the AW6.5s
The BT brackets weren't in my budget.
There have been varying comments with regard to the pods, which I'm sure depends on the speakers and how hard they're driven.
- Seal them. Don't seal them.
- Poly. No Poly.
- Port. Don't Port.
I'm just hoping that someone who may have already installed the Digital Designs speakers, mounting them to the outside of the pods, will chime in and share what seems to work best.
"Experimenting" with the pods is a time consuming job since it takes so long to remove & install them. I'm trying to cut this process down to once and done.
I ported the pods on mine when I installed the Hertz HCX 165's. It made a big difference putting 6 1/2" holes in each. Seemed like it really helped the lower end but nothing to verify except my ears. I was convinced to go with the BT brackets for the DD components. I was a bit concerned about losing the structural support but the brackets are pretty strong and apparently the DD's need the breathing room. I also need the extra space for an NVX along with the Arc 600.4. I sure will not miss messing with those pods. SF
I didn't see your post about not in the budget until after I posted but I think porting is a good option you just might need more/larger ports for the DD.
Last edited by Springerfan; Jan 10, 2017 at 04:48 PM.
If you're talking the Batwing pods I messed around with the some before ditching them. The Moto 602s to me sounded better with the 3" vent I put in the pod than without the pod or sealed up pod. The Focal EC165Ks sounded much better once I lost the pods vs 3" vent or vent closed up.
A lot of it will depend on the speakers. Start with the pods as is and then start venting. Be careful to not go too crazy with the vents because they do add some support to the fairing.
Ports have measured length tubes or baffles in a specific box volume for tuning to a certain frequency.
Weather to port or not was explained pretty clearly in this thread.
It's embarrassing when I'm referred back to my own thread.
Actually, my port or not to port question in this thread was aimed specifically at the DD-AW6.5's. My previous thread was more generic.
I guess that drilling a hole in the pods isn't really "porting" as much as it is "venting".
Everything I've read indicates that "porting" requires installation of a Port Tube of a specific diameter & length that is determined by the size of the speaker, desired tuning frequency, size of the enclosure and several other factors.
Has anyone tried installing a Port Tube in the factory speaker pods?
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