Fairing gaps on reassembly.
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Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2017
Posts: 107
Likes: 11
From: Northern Illinois
Fairing gaps on reassembly.
The bike mocked up and rolling and sounding great, thanks to alL the guyS on the forum who helped me. I am having a problem with some gaps in the batwing now and am worried about water. The biggest one i can see are right now right below the windshield ends on the down slope and cant get them to close up. I noticed that the bt speaker mounting spacer is fighting the fairing in the area and I added the 2 extra bolt to help with he gauges not moving and am wondering if over/under tightening them is messing with the wings geometry and not giving me a good seal. So if anyone has any ideas or tips im looking forward to finishing this thing up one i get the dynamat in.
Thanks
ABENS
Thanks
ABENS
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 3,847
Likes: 999
From: Southern Virginia
What year and make is your bike? If it is a pre-Rushmore fairing I just reassembled mine after using the 5 /14" to 6 1/2" adapters for the speakers and didn't have any problems with the adapters or speakers contacting the outer fairing.
The issues I had was getting all the wires tucked out of the way so they wouldn't push against the outer fairing shell. I had mounted a SoundSteam PN4.1000D amp on top of the head unit and that pushed the big roll of wires in front the speedometer and tachometer up to where the top of the fairing contacted them and caused gaps. If you remove all the screws and gently start pushing the outer shell inward while looking down from where the windshield goes in you may see those wires being pushed like I did. I got some wire ties and tied them back a little bit and that helped.
I also had issues with the wires on the side of the head unit pushing against the outer shell as well. I was able to use wire ties anchored to the mounting bracket I used for the amp to get them out of the way. As someone recommended to me you can remove the headlight (it's just a few Torx screws) and feel around as you push the outer shell in to see where the contact points are. One thing I did that helped was to use one of the black T27 screws that hold the outer fairing shell on and run it in a few threads on the middle windshield threaded bushing. That allowed the outer shell to hang there in place so I could feel around and see where things were pushing against the outer shell.
Hope this helps a little.
The issues I had was getting all the wires tucked out of the way so they wouldn't push against the outer fairing shell. I had mounted a SoundSteam PN4.1000D amp on top of the head unit and that pushed the big roll of wires in front the speedometer and tachometer up to where the top of the fairing contacted them and caused gaps. If you remove all the screws and gently start pushing the outer shell inward while looking down from where the windshield goes in you may see those wires being pushed like I did. I got some wire ties and tied them back a little bit and that helped.
I also had issues with the wires on the side of the head unit pushing against the outer shell as well. I was able to use wire ties anchored to the mounting bracket I used for the amp to get them out of the way. As someone recommended to me you can remove the headlight (it's just a few Torx screws) and feel around as you push the outer shell in to see where the contact points are. One thing I did that helped was to use one of the black T27 screws that hold the outer fairing shell on and run it in a few threads on the middle windshield threaded bushing. That allowed the outer shell to hang there in place so I could feel around and see where things were pushing against the outer shell.
Hope this helps a little.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 3,847
Likes: 999
From: Southern Virginia
Since I have never worked on a motorcycle audio system like this before I took my time and took pictures for reference during the process.
To get that 10 inch wide amplifier in there I had to move a LOT of wires out of the way which put them in places that contacted the inner swell of the outer fairing.
I know I have easily 20 hours in the work inside my fairing making sure everything is secure and not putting pressure on the outer shell. There are a couple of reasons to prevent pressure points on that shell. One is the vibration over time could cause wires to rub through their insulation and short out. Another is the stress being put on the screw bushings could eventually cause them to pop out of their plastic mounting posts and then you have real problems.
To get that 10 inch wide amplifier in there I had to move a LOT of wires out of the way which put them in places that contacted the inner swell of the outer fairing.
I know I have easily 20 hours in the work inside my fairing making sure everything is secure and not putting pressure on the outer shell. There are a couple of reasons to prevent pressure points on that shell. One is the vibration over time could cause wires to rub through their insulation and short out. Another is the stress being put on the screw bushings could eventually cause them to pop out of their plastic mounting posts and then you have real problems.
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