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Ignition goes to whatever your START battery is. Doesn't matter if you're running a 1/2/Both setup or a simple parallel setup.
so the true ignition wire on the isolator just goes to the positive lead on the main battery? Also would you be interested in breaking down the 1/2/ both and parallel wiring options
Originally Posted by haze324
What crazy stuff are you working on man????
Shoot me a text.
Sent ya a text boss!
Last edited by Outkast6991; Jun 25, 2018 at 01:29 PM.
so the true ignition wire on the isolator just goes to the positive lead on the main battery? Also would you be interested in breaking down the 1/2/ both and parallel wiring options
1 = use the first battery (typically the START battery)
2 = use the second battery (usually the HOUSE battery)
Both = sum of 1 and 2
Ignition can go to any positive source that is live when the vehicle is running, however, to keep it simple its always been wired to the START battery because its always charging.
Ignition can go to any positive source that is live when the vehicle is running, however, to keep it simple its always been wired to the START battery because its always charging.
So in a simple parallel connection, both would also charge when running?
So in a simple parallel connection, both would also charge when running?
from the info I've been given, yes. The downfall would be no protection from running the batteries down to the point the bike won't start. That's where the isolator/ switch come in.
from the info I've been given, yes. The downfall would be no protection from running the batteries down to the point the bike won't start. That's where the isolator/ switch come in.
Without an isolator, you are obviously taxing both batteries, which means the alternator has to work overtime to charge two batteries and consequently will take longer to charge them back up. You'll end up beating the **** out of your batteries and charging system.
The isolator also helps prevent the batteries from charging/discharging each other when the vehicle is off.
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