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Yeah I personally wouldn't touch anything other than the Yellow but a couple comp folks last weekend were running these Blacks complimented very well with other shix and it was eye watering loud clear and well balanced.
Cool to see all the options increasing.
T
My personal thoughts Nothing sounds better than Beyma. Having options (especially new ones) is cool though.
Take a look at the DD Audio VO-MN8. They wont play as low but would be awesome in a lid. They are marine rated and super light weight. The VO-w8 would be awesome but are heavy. I wouldn't want a speaker that heavy in my lid, but that's just me.
Tell you what Alex I'm torn..I'm still looking at the same thing...I have 4 beyma6gmnd so I'm good on midrange...I'm adding dirtybird lowers and lids so adding a total of 4 8s for a solid MIDBASS...i love prv and beyma...torn between trying the prv forte 700 OR a beyma that will give me the best midBASS for these locations...I don't know beyma line that well and I know they have tons of models...I'll be giving em 300 watts each
Tell you what Alex I'm torn..I'm still looking at the same thing...I have 4 beyma6gmnd so I'm good on midrange...I'm adding dirtybird lowers and lids so adding a total of 4 8s for a solid MIDBASS...i love prv and beyma...torn between trying the prv forte 700 OR a beyma that will give me the best midBASS for these locations...I don't know beyma line that well and I know they have tons of models...I'll be giving em 300 watts each
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Last edited by Ron D 33; Nov 22, 2019 at 08:18 PM.
If you go 8ohm on your 8's you can parallel bridge them to the rear channels on the TX48. 400 watts to each lid would be awesome.
Ok, so a couple people have said this is the way to go and I like the sound of it but I was talking to a local audio shop about this and I am now questioning how this would be possible. The TX48 is rated at 4 x 200 @ 4ohms, how would bridging an 8ohm speaker get 400 per lid just using the rear channels? Wouldn't that get me back to 200 watts a piece at 4 ohms making bridging 8 ohm speakers a moot point? I will need to use channels 1 and 2 for a pair of horns. What am I missing? I've ordered my lids, and I'm going with a pair of Diamond Horns, the last piece of the puzzle is which 8 and the answer to this question is key to speaker choice.
Last edited by boosted20v; Jan 3, 2020 at 09:36 AM.
Ok, so a couple people have said this is the way to go and I like the sound of it but I was talking to a local audio shop about this and I am now questioning how this would be possible. The TX48 is rated at 4 x 200 @ 4ohms, how would bridging an 8ohm speaker get 400 per lid just using the rear channels? Wouldn't that get me back to 200 watts a piece at 4 ohms making bridging 8 ohm speakers a moot point? I will need to use channels 1 and 2 for a pair of horns. What am I missing?
Parallel 2 - 8 ohm speakers for a 4 ohm load. Then you have one pos and one neg lead. Then bridge 3/4 to those. That'll be 800 watts divided by 2 speakers.
Parallel 2 - 8 ohm speakers for a 4 ohm load. Then you have one pos and one neg lead. Then bridge 3/4 to those. That'll be 800 watts divided by 2 speakers.
Yeah I just looked at the specs again and think I was misreading them. So it makes sense again, now I need to find true 8 ohm speakers to maximize the available power. For example I heard that Beyma 8ohm speakers are actually 5.6 ohms, I know we talked about the Beyma's but I have confirmed they won't fit without a lot of work.
Yeah I just looked at the specs again and think I was misreading them. So it makes sense again, now I need to find true 8 ohm speakers to maximize the available power. For example I heard that Beyma 8ohm speakers are actually 5.6 ohms, I know we talked about the Beyma's but I have confirmed they won't fit without a lot of work.
Don't look too far into the actual ohms vs nominal. Resistance is an ever changing number based on the frequency they're playing at. Just use the nominal resistance as your benchmark and it'll get you where you need to be. If it a listed as 8 ohms, roll with it and parallel them
EMF Audio recently posted a good YT video about impedance rise. Including how you should NOT match your amplifier power based on what the "hot" speaker impedance is. It applies more to the SPL world but educational none the less.
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