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It sounds like if there are no highs but mids sound good then it is a tuning issue but since you sent it back, who knows. You very well could have had a bad amp. I got a bad one once and had to send it back. The stinger is a solid performer but as with anything you can get a bad one. I ran a tm400 for a long time as the guys here will attest too and the second i replaced it with the stinger, hands down better sound and volume. I am just now replacing it with a sd 1200.4 and I will see if there is any difference. If i dont like it after tuning it then it will come out. As far as going back to a rf amp, I as others have stated, a step backwards but if thats what will work for you then go for it.
Hey T, I'll be interested in how you like that SD 1200.4. I've got the TX48 and a Stinger in the fairing right now, but I have that SD on the radar, lol.
Hey T, I'll be interested in how you like that SD 1200.4. I've got the TX48 and a Stinger in the fairing right now, but I have that SD on the radar, lol.
Yes sir. I already knw it should be louder but we will se about the SQ. I will give up all the volume for good SQ.
I guess it could have been the amp. I honestly think you were a little too quick to send it back without doing some troubleshooting.
You say you already have the RF flash.
Were you feeding the stinger line level output, or did you have a line level converter like the PAC Sni-35 to convert speaker level to RCA input into your Stinger? Not sure what others are doing, but I usually convert over to RCAs to feed the amp.
The Stinger may not have met your expectations of build quality, but I have yet to find any issues with any of the ones I've installed. The Stinger has always been a solid performer for most of us once it is Installed and tuned properly. That's why so many of us are still using the Stinger.
Most of us are quite familiar with the RF PBR amps, as well as the RF TD400x4 as well. You probably find it hard to believe, but the Stinger easily out performs both. I have replaced a few of them with Stingers for friends who can't believe how much better it is.
I'm leaning towards issues other than the amp like something not being set properly, possible speakers out of phase, input cables not being wired properly, etc. Lots of little variables that could be causing your issue. Heck even a faulty head unit.
Hopefully not, but at this point, the fact you lost highs, has me concerned that you could possibly have blown tweeters.
I haven't heard of a lot of issues with the Stinger amp, but it could have happened. I talk to more guys with tuning and wiring issues than I do guys with Stinger problems.
Everybody can run into wiring issues sometimes and have to backtrack and do a little trouble shooting, myself included.
Hopefully the amp you ordered works well for you.
Yes sir. I already knw it should be louder but we will se about the SQ. I will give up all the volume for good SQ.
I hear ya. I switched from one of the older 100 watt per channel Stingers(bench tested at 105 x4) to the TX48 on my Mmats and G2's. Definately gained volume, but I also feel like I lost some sound quality. I wouldn't hesitate to order up a newer stinger when they are back in stock and prices level off again, but definitely keeping my options open. Looking at the SD amps and the Focal sport
I guess it could have been the amp. I honestly think you were a little too quick to send it back without doing some troubleshooting.
You say you already have the RF flash.
Were you feeding the stinger line level output, or did you have a line level converter like the PAC Sni-35 to convert speaker level to RCA input into your Stinger? Not sure what others are doing, but I usually convert over to RCAs to feed the amp.
The Stinger may not have met your expectations of build quality, but I have yet to find any issues with any of the ones I've installed. The Stinger has always been a solid performer for most of us once it is Installed and tuned properly. That's why so many of us are still using the Stinger.
Most of us are quite familiar with the RF PBR amps, as well as the RF TD400x4 as well. You probably find it hard to believe, but the Stinger easily out performs both. I have replaced a few of them with Stingers for friends who can't believe how much better it is.
I'm leaning towards issues other than the amp like something not being set properly, possible speakers out of phase, input cables not being wired properly, etc. Lots of little variables that could be causing your issue. Heck even a faulty head unit.
Hopefully not, but at this point, the fact you lost highs, has me concerned that you could possibly have blown tweeters.
I haven't heard of a lot of issues with the Stinger amp, but it could have happened. I talk to more guys with tuning and wiring issues than I do guys with Stinger problems.
Everybody can run into wiring issues sometimes and have to backtrack and do a little trouble shooting, myself included.
Hopefully the amp you ordered works well for you.
I am using low input with RCA plugs. This is with the RF Flash that worked great for my PBR300x2 and stock Boom 1 speakers.
This was initially installed with no DSP and after turning I found that there was a difference in on speaker so I ran a voltage test on all the lines and found one that was way off from the other 3. I tracked down the issue to a faulty RCA adapter so ditched the adapters for a Stinger RCA cable and soldiered the connections. That got the output voltages in sync. Once that was sorted out I was able to tune the amp using Ohm's law. Since there are no marks between 40 and 400 on the frequency modulator I went very conservative (around 12 oclock which is close to 200).at first while I worked on gain. I was able to get it dialed in well enough to need earplugs but from song to song it would change drastically. I settled on gains at around 9 o'clock, much lower than what was calculated, and adjust the frequency to around 120 (estimated). This was the best I could get out of the system. I only had a couple of ride on it and it seemed to be degrading so I went ahead and opted for a DSP, the RF DSR1. This literally made such an insignificant difference and after tuning with this the rear highs (both speakers) just dropped off. This happened as I was adjusting the frequency on the amp, there was a little static sound and the rear highs just dropped off. The volume was nowhere near max and the time as I was not adjusting gains so to have 2 speakers blow tweeters at half volume and the same time is very unlikely.
I am going with, this amp had issues. From the get go the bass on the Mmats weren't evern as good as the bass on the stock speakers that were running the RF PBR300x2. At any level of gain the bass was just not there. If I tuned the frequency under about 250 the bass would distort at low volumes. Something was just not processing correctly. This was with and without the DSP connected. I am not even sure I needed the DSP as it seemed to make no difference and I have heard if you have a flash on your radio that the DSP is not needed. I even tried an RTA analyzer on it before and after the DSP and I couldn't get the signal to change much. The mids and highs were painful and the bass was just awful.
I guess I will know soon enough but I think I did plenty on the tune, with a RF Flash and going from no DSP to DSP and back to no DSP, this just wouldn't sound good at all. I had the RF amp and Kappa speakers dialed in for years with no problems so it's not like I haven't done this before. I do know how to get a decent tune. Can I get 100% out of it...probably not but I can at least get it to sound decent. We'll see how the RF amp changes things.
Just for future reference you do not use crossover filters on both the amp and the DSP. That's what the DSP is for. Amp must be ran with the crossovers off. There are also individual volume adjustments for each channel in the DSP itself. Not bashing, I just don't think you understood all the different adjustments on the DSP.
Just for future reference you do not use crossover filters on both the amp and the DSP. That's what the DSP is for. Amp must be ran with the crossovers off. There are also individual volume adjustments for each channel in the DSP itself. Not bashing, I just don't think you understood all the different adjustments on the DSP.
I ran AP with the DSP attached and also tried it with HP when that wasn't working. I understand the different adjustments. All your comments just assume I don't understand or don't know how to do something, not productive. I think we have solved the problem here though, you don't need to contribute any further.
I ran AP with the DSP attached and also tried it with HP when that wasn't working. I understand the different adjustments. All your comments just assume I don't understand or don't know how to do something, not productive. I think we have solved the problem here though, you don't need to contribute any further.
I've assumed nothing. All comments were solely based off of your own comments on every post you've made since starting this upgrade. Based off of conversations with others that have tried to help you, you absolutely don't get it and that's ok too. None of us know as much as we think we know. But then there are those that will question every ounce of unsolicited advice which ends up with no one willing to lend a hand in your time of need. And bashing a product after your misguided attempts failed is indeed a cowardly way out. I don't think the problem was solved at all but I'm certain of where the problem lies. Good day!!
I ran AP with the DSP attached and also tried it with HP when that wasn't working. I understand the different adjustments. All your comments just assume I don't understand or don't know how to do something, not productive. I think we have solved the problem here though, you don't need to contribute any further.
Good to hear you have solved the problem.
Inquiring minds are curious. What was your final prognosis? Or are you still waiting for a new amp to confirm?
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