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Stinger Amp Issues?

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Old Jun 30, 2020 | 04:03 PM
  #1  
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misterkey
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Default Stinger Amp Issues?

So, I upgraded to a Stinger, VO B3s and Mmats (fairing and lowers) about 2 weeks ago. It sounded amazing for about 7 hours of ride time. In the middle of a ride, the music stopped playing. The head unit still lit up and appeared to function properly, but no sound came through the speakers.

After removing the fairing, I noticed that the amp power light was not lit (with the ignition on). I checked the 40 amp fuse in the power line and it was blown. I pulled it and went to replace it. As soon as I started to insert the fuse, it blew (the ignition was off). I removed the power line from the amp and disconnected it from the battery. I taped off the amp end to avoid contact with anything and then replaced the fuse in the line. I then attached the line back to the battery. Nothing happened. The fuse was fine... leading me to believe that there is no grounding issue.

I then removed the tape to connect it back to the amp (ignition off). As soon as the line touched the amp, it sparked. I pulled it away from the amp and immediately checked the line fuse. It was blown.

I also checked all of the speaker connections and ground. All were tight and secure. What do you think is the issue?
 
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Old Jun 30, 2020 | 08:45 PM
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Any chance you have the inputs (power and ground) to the amp reversed? Had this same behavior (of blowing fuses immediately on connecting even with everything off) recently on an amp I was putting in my boat. Power and ground were connected to the ground and power inputs. Reversed.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2020 | 10:04 PM
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Thanks for your response!

After speaking with Gannicus, it appears that my remote wire from my head unit may be at fault (since my amp stays on without the ignition being on). I am going to try to use the accessory wire as the remote to turn on the amp. Hopefully, that takes care of it!
 
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Old Jul 7, 2020 | 08:14 AM
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I tried to delete this thread, but couldn't figure out how. There was no issue with the Stinger at all. So, I had to take my bike to Gannicus. Come to find out that the previous owner did a total hack job on the power and ground wires. I never checked those prior to installing the Stinger, because I never had problems with the RF or SS that I had in the past. Make sure that you have a strong foundation for your components... proper gauge power and ground wires along with a barrel fuse set up. Ride on!
 
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Old Jul 7, 2020 | 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by misterkey
I tried to delete this thread, but couldn't figure out how. There was no issue with the Stinger at all. So, I had to take my bike to Gannicus. Come to find out that the previous owner did a total hack job on the power and ground wires. I never checked those prior to installing the Stinger, because I never had problems with the RF or SS that I had in the past. Make sure that you have a strong foundation for your components... proper gauge power and ground wires along with a barrel fuse set up. Ride on!
Why would you want to delete the thread. Might be of some help to someone else someday with a similar problem.

Glad he got you squared away!
 
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Old Jul 7, 2020 | 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by teedoff65
Why would you want to delete the thread. Might be of some help to someone else someday with a similar problem.

Glad he got you squared away!
I agree
 
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Old Jun 14, 2021 | 10:30 AM
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Fwiw, for my newest build, I ran my 4 awg power and ground straight to the battery for the first time. In the past, I always grounded to the frame, as I was naturally worried about drain, and the other issues mentioned here, etc. Well, just got back from the first longer run of the year, with 4 nights without a battery tender, and no issues whatsoever. The SD1200 worked flawlessly. I did bring one of those lithium car starters just in case, but no issues.
 
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