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PBR300X4 +dxi650 speakers

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Old Mar 30, 2013 | 09:11 AM
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Default PBR300X4 +dxi650 speakers

Hi guys,

I have a Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 hooked up to a pair of Polk Audio DXI650 speakers. Right now I just have the one set of speakers and the amp is configured in 2 channel mode.

The amp ended up failing after about a year of use. I got another one, but it won't even turn on (no power light at all when I hook it up). Dead right out of the box.

So while I'm waiting for the replacement to ship from amazon, I decided to ohm the speakers.

Although these speakers are supposed to be 4 ohm, they ohm at about 2.3 ohms. I realize that speakers are rated in impedance and not resistance, but it seems to me that 2.3 is a little low. In my experience speakers tend to ohm a few tenths lower than the rated impedance.

Does anyone have a set of these that they can ohm? I'm trying to figure out whether my speakers went bad and caused the original amp to fail.

All of this is going into my CVO Ultra Classic (which is more of an Ultra Street Glide now that I've made the tourpack detachable).
 
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Old Mar 30, 2013 | 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by kerberos
Hi guys,

I have a Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 hooked up to a pair of Polk Audio DXI650 speakers. Right now I just have the one set of speakers and the amp is configured in 2 channel mode.

The amp ended up failing after about a year of use. I got another one, but it won't even turn on (no power light at all when I hook it up). Dead right out of the box.

So while I'm waiting for the replacement to ship from amazon, I decided to ohm the speakers.

Although these speakers are supposed to be 4 ohm, they ohm at about 2.3 ohms. I realize that speakers are rated in impedance and not resistance, but it seems to me that 2.3 is a little low. In my experience speakers tend to ohm a few tenths lower than the rated impedance.

Does anyone have a set of these that they can ohm? I'm trying to figure out whether my speakers went bad and caused the original amp to fail.

All of this is going into my CVO Ultra Classic (which is more of an Ultra Street Glide now that I've made the tourpack detachable).
You can't ohm out a speaker accurately through the crossovers. YOu have to measure the woofer at the speaker terminals with nothing connected to the speaker and disregard the tweeter as it makes little to no difference in the final impedance the amp sees.

As for the amp not turning on, did you adjust the voltage input on the side of the amp? That is what determines at what voltage the amp turns on from the head unit speaker inputs.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2013 | 10:07 PM
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Yep I tried adjusting the remote turnon adjustment.
On the new amp, I noticed that the pot doesn't seem to have a stop.
The old one does. That was what made me decide to call it bad.

Thanks for your help!
 
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Old Mar 31, 2013 | 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by kerberos
Yep I tried adjusting the remote turnon adjustment.
On the new amp, I noticed that the pot doesn't seem to have a stop.
The old one does. That was what made me decide to call it bad.

Thanks for your help!
see that right there sir is the exact same thing I've experienced with this amp. I just don't like it... I went through 3 of them with pot issues on the gain controls, the 3rd one just like you have experienced, didn't work out of the box.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2013 | 01:33 AM
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Originally Posted by UltraNutZ
see that right there sir is the exact same thing I've experienced with this amp. I just don't like it... I went through 3 of them with pot issues on the gain controls, the 3rd one just like you have experienced, didn't work out of the box.
Well, I got my replacement from amazon.. It doesn't work either. I think probably the amp isn't the problem.
Work has been crazy and I haven't had much time to look, but with everything off I have 12v to the power leads at the amp. Nothing on the remote turnon lead. Turn the ignition on, voltage drops to near 0 at the amp input (12v at the remote turnon lead.

Next time I have a chance to look, I'm gonna check out the power connection at the battery and the fuse. Either a bad head unit, bad connection at the battery, or maybe a bad fuse holder I'm thinkin'.

I may try plugging my headset in and see if i get audio through it. Or attaching a different radio to the amp. Maybe the shop radio. Think that would mess up the amp?
 
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Old Apr 10, 2013 | 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by kerberos
Well, I got my replacement from amazon.. It doesn't work either. I think probably the amp isn't the problem.
Work has been crazy and I haven't had much time to look, but with everything off I have 12v to the power leads at the amp. Nothing on the remote turnon lead. Turn the ignition on, voltage drops to near 0 at the amp input (12v at the remote turnon lead.

Next time I have a chance to look, I'm gonna check out the power connection at the battery and the fuse. Either a bad head unit, bad connection at the battery, or maybe a bad fuse holder I'm thinkin'.

I may try plugging my headset in and see if i get audio through it. Or attaching a different radio to the amp. Maybe the shop radio. Think that would mess up the amp?
Just to follow up -

When I initially installed the amp I ran power and ground to the fairing with some 14 ga. wire. I fused next to the battery with (what I thought was) a heavy duty, nicely sealed fuse holder.

Guess what the problem was? That fuse holder. It was corroded inside. Also it had gotten hot and melted inside. When I would turn on the ignition and put load on the circuit, the fuse holder was dropping all the votage even though it ohmed end to end.

From the outside it looked totally normal - nothing to indicate that it had gotten hot.

So let that be a lesson to you boys.... if your amp is having problems don't just ohm those fuse holders, take 'em apart and look at 'em before you declare them good.

That damned fuse holder was the problem all along. I'm back up and running on the original amp. I guess I have a spare now, if amazon won't accept the replacement I bought back.
 
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Old Apr 10, 2013 | 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by kerberos
When I initially installed the amp I ran power and ground to the fairing with some 14 ga. wire. I fused next to the battery with (what I thought was) a heavy duty, nicely sealed fuse holder.
YIKES! Man you need 10ga wire for that amp, it tells you that on page 5 of the installation manual....
 
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Old Apr 10, 2013 | 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by UltraNutZ
YIKES! Man you need 10ga wire for that amp, it tells you that on page 5 of the installation manual....
X2!! 14 gauge is way to small and if your fuse holder is only 14 gauge it will happen again!
 
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Old Apr 11, 2013 | 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by blue66
X2!! 14 gauge is way to small and if your fuse holder is only 14 gauge it will happen again!
10ga minimum...

anything smaller and you're doing 2 things;
1.) starving your amp for power because you won't be able to feed enough current to it as it demands it resulting in heating up your amp and eventually causing failure of the amp.

2.) the wire itself heating up to the point where componenets such as your fuse holder start to fail
 
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Old Apr 11, 2013 | 11:43 AM
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Kerberos,

To be fair, you should edit your original post and say that your problems were caused by your failure to use the proper wire for the install.

If you haven't done so already, check-out a 10ga wire and compare it to the 14ga wire you used. Wire gauge is like pipe diameter-the larger the diameter the more current it can flow. And amps require exceptional current flow compared to many electrical components on the bike.

Carl
 
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