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I have a pic comparing the 7.1 and the 6.5 posted on my install thread.
looks like a mid-range driver compared to that monster. I can't wait to get these in to see what they sound like.. I'm liking what I see so far though...
You're not reading it @ db's @ 1 watt.They all LOOK like they're above 90,......but using @ 2.83 volts,..makes the numbers look better.
Just a marketing ploy that was started to compare apples and pineapples !
As an example: 92.5 dB at 2.83 volts is the same as 89.5 dB at 1 watt
See how that works ??? Sneaky sneaky !!
AS I said before,...it doesn't mean that it won't sound good,......it'll just take more power to get it there.
Glacier, I think you may be confused. 2.83 volts is used as a standard RMS test voltage because it creates 1 watt on a typical 8ohm speaker. Check out the explanation on efficiency on the good ol' wikipedia.
This question has probably been asked a million times, but if the speaker opening in the inner fairing is only 5.25"...and the speakers are now 7+", doesn't that cut some sound out considering there's not a straight shot out the fairing? I know it has no where else to go...just seems that being shielded it would lose some of it's luster...
With that said, I'll be ordering 7's of some sort (kinda like what Harleypingman did with mounting the component tweets in the hogtunes pod)...no doubt about it...bigger is better so long as the power to them is clean.
Thanks as usual for all the info fellas. You're making us all smarter one post at a time!
This question has probably been asked a million times, but if the speaker opening in the inner fairing is only 5.25"...and the speakers are now 7+", doesn't that cut some sound out considering there's not a straight shot out the fairing? I know it has no where else to go...just seems that being shielded it would lose some of it's luster...
With that said, I'll be ordering 7's of some sort (kinda like what Harleypingman did with mounting the component tweets in the hogtunes pod)...no doubt about it...bigger is better so long as the power to them is clean.
Thanks as usual for all the info fellas. You're making us all smarter one post at a time!
you're not blocking anything really. the adapter rings are made like a "funnel" with a larger face on the back and smaller face on the front so all sounds is pushed through the 5.25" openings.
I mean realistically I understand what the premise behind your question is, but truthfully speaking you'll never notice it
I kinda assumed that...guess it was more rhetorical than anything...nonetheless, I'm awaiting a call back from Bill at BT...
Did you install them?? What were your impressions if you did? This info would pretty much make or break my decision...I have the SS PN4.520D on the way. Def want the fader control to get more from the lowers, but it may not be possible with the 7.1 overpowering...I mean I don't want to limit them too much just to hear the lowers...ya know?
I kinda assumed that...guess it was more rhetorical than anything...nonetheless, I'm awaiting a call back from Bill at BT...
Did you install them?? What were your impressions if you did? This info would pretty much make or break my decision...I have the SS PN4.520D on the way. Def want the fader control to get more from the lowers, but it may not be possible with the 7.1 overpowering...I mean I don't want to limit them too much just to hear the lowers...ya know?
installing them for a forum member Friday with a SS 520D bridged. I'll definately report back on them.
Glacier, I think you may be confused. 2.83 volts is used as a standard RMS test voltage because it creates 1 watt on a typical 8ohm speaker. Check out the explanation on efficiency on the good ol' wikipedia.
yes 2.83 volts into an 8 ohm speaker produces 1 watt of power and that same 2.83v into a 4 ohm speaker will produce 2 watts of power. But the thing to keep in mind is manufacturers have a couple of different ways to predicate their speaker stats with measurements. Most that use the 2.83v are either a higher end speaker manufacturer or a home audio speaker manufacturer. Most car audio manufacturers still utilize the 1w/1m measurements. There truly is no one way to do this unless everyone settles on the same measurement standard and considering it's been this way for umpteen decades I doubt it's going to change any time soon.
The best thing you can truly go by is this:
Speaker A with a sens rating of 90db requires 100w of amplification to produce a GIVEN VOLUME
Speaker B with a sens rating of 93db requires 50w of amplification to produce the same GIVEN VOLUME
Speaker C with a sens rating of 96db (very rare find) requires 25w of amplification to produce the same GIVEN VOLUME
Speaker manufacturers will rarely produce efficiency ratings because they are usually very low numbers (somewhere between .02 and .2 % is the norm) but instead choose to produce sensitivity ratings. Whether it's because it looks better on paper, who knows but it is what it is and that's the way they've always done it. The efficiency of a speaker is really what is the most important piece because it determines how accurately/effectively the speaker converts electrical power (what comes out of the amp) into acoustical power (what you hear)
Sensitivity on the other hand is how effectively the speaker converts that same electrical power but into db (decibels) which means how loud it gets with that same given tone of 1khz. This is more often than not, the way car audio manufacturers test their speakers and therefore produce specifications.
UltraNutZ, what do you think about the New BK 7.1...is the sound worth the extra cash when compared to the Polk MM651's?
I was thinking about running 2 sets of Polks until you said the 7.1's were out.
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