The Official 2014 audio upgrade thread
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 2,267
Likes: 135
From: Midland Twp, MI
The calibration is a simple track JL put together that you play and then push the calibration button in on the Fix and it makes the internal adjusments needed to create a flat signal to the amp. This track is also something you don't want going through your speakers while doing the calibration. Its a bunch of test tones with some pink noise in there if i remember right.
Club Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 917
Likes: 95
From: Nashville, TN
The calibration is a simple track JL put together that you play and then push the calibration button in on the Fix and it makes the internal adjusments needed to create a flat signal to the amp. This track is also something you don't want going through your speakers while doing the calibration. Its a bunch of test tones with some pink noise in there if i remember right.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 2,325
Likes: 333
From: Upper Providence Pa
So is this file available and does anyone have the procedure for running it and locating the FIX button? Is this needed each time an update is done, is that the way I read this?
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 2,267
Likes: 135
From: Midland Twp, MI
The Fix comes with a CD. I ripped it and then put it on a thumb drive. I want to say that after you have done a calibration it shouldn't matter if you update the boom software. The Fix should adjust the signal to have the same output as before the software update.
Club Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 917
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From: Nashville, TN
The fix uses the current headunits built in DSP/eq settings to calibrate off of. So every time you do a software upgrade you will need to recalibrate it.
Think of the times when you've upgraded the software and the audio sound changes. That's because Harley feels the need to readjust audio DSP/eq settings in every download.
So yes, recalibrate AFTER you update the software and do a reset.
The recalibration process takes about 3-4 minutes, super fast and easy. No downloads needed. Hook the USB cable up, open the software and choose the "CALIBRATE" button. Simple.
Think of the times when you've upgraded the software and the audio sound changes. That's because Harley feels the need to readjust audio DSP/eq settings in every download.
So yes, recalibrate AFTER you update the software and do a reset.
The recalibration process takes about 3-4 minutes, super fast and easy. No downloads needed. Hook the USB cable up, open the software and choose the "CALIBRATE" button. Simple.
Last edited by tesnevo; Apr 21, 2017 at 09:08 PM.
Club Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 917
Likes: 95
From: Nashville, TN
https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us...ration-Process
Club Member
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 917
Likes: 95
From: Nashville, TN
No problem at all brother. That's what I'm here for, to interject what little I may know, lol.
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Ended up getting this. I dug through his old posts/complaints in the audio forum regarding these speakers, and I think he was trying to do too much with what he had.
Plugged in the hertz ECX 165 to the bridged Diamond amp, and tuned the amp/bt355 to taste...sounds better than I expected! Friends of ours were visiting a birthday party two blocks away and they said they could hear the music clear like it was coming from the house next door. I think when I do the woofers (Hertz EVF 165) in some fairing lowers I'll put them on their own amp. If anything, I'm missing a LITTLE bit of low range punch, but I think adding these will help.
I do have a question: with it bridged its putting out 300W x 2 at 4ohm. The head unit is 2ohm...does that mean that I'm putting extra load on the amp to filter it down from 2ohm to 4ohm? Should I have some resisters or something between the BT355 and the HU? Or between the BT355 and the amp?
Plugged in the hertz ECX 165 to the bridged Diamond amp, and tuned the amp/bt355 to taste...sounds better than I expected! Friends of ours were visiting a birthday party two blocks away and they said they could hear the music clear like it was coming from the house next door. I think when I do the woofers (Hertz EVF 165) in some fairing lowers I'll put them on their own amp. If anything, I'm missing a LITTLE bit of low range punch, but I think adding these will help.
I do have a question: with it bridged its putting out 300W x 2 at 4ohm. The head unit is 2ohm...does that mean that I'm putting extra load on the amp to filter it down from 2ohm to 4ohm? Should I have some resisters or something between the BT355 and the HU? Or between the BT355 and the amp?
