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Tje bt355 foes on the input side between the head unit and the amp so if you are using the front and rear from the head unit you need 2 otherwise 1 will do.
Yes unfortunately this is the nature of the beast. HD has the Infotainment system set to run a .bin file that controls the EQ when the bike is on ACC so it sounds it's best on the showroom floor. Another .bin file takes control of the EQ when the bike is running to protect the crappy stock speakers from blowing up.
Here are a few questions that may be helpful.
What year and model bike?
How many speakers?
Has the bike ever been Flashed by the dealer?
Was the HU reset after installing software version 1.19.0?
Are the LL set to default?
I've been wondering this for a while but never asked the question until now... is there a way to trick the HU into thinking the switch is in the ACC position even when the bike is running? You would think that someone else has asked this question before but I've never run across this discussion on this forum. I have a complete infortainment system wiring diagram in my shop manual. I'll have to take a look to see if I can re-wire something to accomplish this.
I'm impressed with the wealth of info I have searched through....but... at the risk of sounding like a weirdo, I'm just looking to replace the 4 speakers only on my 2016. Im looking to just do a plug and play to improve existing boom speakers. Down the road I'm sure I will add an amp,etc.... but I'm just looking to get better sound quality from my radio. I have spent $2,300 this past month on stage 1 exhaust,handlebars and misc upgrades. I'm not in position to drop a bunch of money right now.
I'm looking for recommendations on 4 speakers I can swap out to existing factory system to get better quality. Right now I'm not concerned to get more volume.
I've been wondering this for a while but never asked the question until now... is there a way to trick the HU into thinking the switch is in the ACC position even when the bike is running? You would think that someone else has asked this question before but I've never run across this discussion on this forum. I have a complete infortainment system wiring diagram in my shop manual. I'll have to take a look to see if I can re-wire something to accomplish this.
I was just talking to Mike at Biketronics about this very thing last week and he said it would be nice if someone came up with a way to solve this.
I've been wondering this for a while but never asked the question until now... is there a way to trick the HU into thinking the switch is in the ACC position even when the bike is running? You would think that someone else has asked this question before but I've never run across this discussion on this forum. I have a complete infortainment system wiring diagram in my shop manual. I'll have to take a look to see if I can re-wire something to accomplish this.
So far the best fixes for this have been the JL Fix82 and 86 or a DSP. The JL Fix is a BT355 on steroids that will take the on/off bin and adjust the output so that it is the same input to the amp no matter the input to the JL Fix once calibrated, so on bin vs off bin will have the same output (please correct me if I'm off on this). The DSP is a step up from that and allows you to control just about everything, but takes some tuning knowledge and in the wrong hands can turn a bad *** system to trash. And please dont think I'm knocking the BT355 in any way. I've used all of these options and have been pleased and had success with each (JL Fix, DSP, BT355).
So far the best fixes for this have been the JL Fix82 and 86 or a DSP. The JL Fix is a BT355 on steroids that will take the on/off bin and adjust the output so that it is the same input to the amp no matter the input to the JL Fix once calibrated, so on bin vs off bin will have the same output (please correct me if I'm off on this). The DSP is a step up from that and allows you to control just about everything, but takes some tuning knowledge and in the wrong hands can turn a bad *** system to trash. And please dont think I'm knocking the BT355 in any way. I've used all of these options and have been pleased and had success with each (JL Fix, DSP, BT355).
That sounds complicated (and expensive). Simply by figuring out a way to trick the HU into thinking the bike switch was in the ACC position, engine off, it would sound better without spending a dime! Like was mentioned before, Harley has the system "rigged" to sound best in ACC with the engine off. Someone with electrical knowledge and a good wiring diagram should be able to decipher where the HU is getting it's inforamtion from to determine between engine on and engine off.
That sounds complicated (and expensive). Simply by figuring out a way to trick the HU into thinking the bike switch was in the ACC position, engine off, it would sound better without spending a dime! Like was mentioned before, Harley has the system "rigged" to sound best in ACC with the engine off. Someone with electrical knowledge and a good wiring diagram should be able to decipher where the HU is getting it's inforamtion from to determine between engine on and engine off.
Unfortunately i think it's the internal DSP of the head unit that makes the switch of the output signal. But i completely agree it would be nice to find a way to fool iut to think it's in acc all the time.
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