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If you are using JM speakers keep in mind they are 2 ohm speakers and most amps are only stable down to 2 ohms so you will have to have a channel for each speaker or run them in series and get less of a draw on the amp. Not knocking the speakers just wanted you to get a 4 channel amp to run them
So then if I buy the jm speakers I have to buy the 4 ch expensive *** amp lol
Class D amps which are plentiful and very inexpensive (well some of them) in comparison are a big hit but you run the risk of losing all FM reception because of their power supply technology. So if FM is important then look at other amps.
If you go the route of the J&M speakers which are 2 ohm and a 2 channel amp then you have only 1 choice and that's to wire the speakers in series (later when you add 2 more) to bring the load at the amp to 4 ohms. Otherwise you'll toast your amp at a 1 ohm load wiring them in parallel.
bigh8840.. IMO your best bet would be to choose a good 4 ohm speaker for your fairing. The J&M 2 channel and the BT2180 amps are good amps so either will be fine. Later on if you want to add 2 more speakers in the lids then make sure they are 4 ohm as well. When you go back to wire the 4 speakers up, you'll want to wire them in parallel to create a 2 ohm load which both amps are capable of handling and will provide for best experience. The draw back to this type of setup is you will not have fader control (front to rear).
Class D amps which are plentiful and very inexpensive (well some of them) in comparison are a big hit but you run the risk of losing all FM reception because of their power supply technology. So if FM is important then look at other amps.
If you go the route of the J&M speakers which are 2 ohm and a 2 channel amp then you have only 1 choice and that's to wire the speakers in series (later when you add 2 more) to bring the load at the amp to 4 ohms. Otherwise you'll toast your amp at a 1 ohm load wiring them in parallel.
bigh8840.. IMO your best bet would be to choose a good 4 ohm speaker for your fairing. The J&M 2 channel and the BT2180 amps are good amps so either will be fine. Later on if you want to add 2 more speakers in the lids then make sure they are 4 ohm as well. When you go back to wire the 4 speakers up, you'll want to wire them in parallel to create a 2 ohm load which both amps are capable of handling and will provide for best experience. The draw back to this type of setup is you will not have fader control (front to rear).
Thanks for the advice. So if I do a 4 ohm speaker is the 180 powerful enough for 4 sorwkers? I want a plug n play for the 14 Bc I'm not a audiophile and my knowledge is limited
Yep. You don't have to but it would be best. They aren't quite as versatile as I'd like. I'm with Nutz though. Just skip the J&M's and get a good set of 4ohms and leave yourself some room to grow. If you get the 4180 we can have you using 8 speakers before its over with lol!
Originally Posted by bigh8840
So then if I buy the jm speakers I have to buy the 4 ch expensive *** amp lol
for the guys who had there upgraded system flashed. did you readjust the gain and hz after the flash?
just installed the pbr300x2 and the infinity 62.11i and plan on getting it flashed. sound does not seem that loud. i put the volume all the way up and still feel as though it could be louder.
So I started reading this thread last night but didn't get very far. Especially since every other post is from the J&M guy. But while I was reading it reminded me that I have a set of Polk speakers still in the box that my husband bought and ended up not using. I went digging and sure enough they are the 6.5s. I did at least read that I would need to countersink for the screws. I was thinking of pairing w/ one of the little Rockford Fosgate amps.
So w/ that said and I'm sure it's in this thread somewhere and I apologize for asking but what size screws would I need since longer screws are suggested? What else would I need besides the speakers and amp (just doing the 2 in the fairing)? Do you think the RF amp will be a good pairing? Oh yeah, I'll probably get the deeper covers as well from Harley.
So I started reading this thread last night but didn't get very far.
most don't. :-)
Originally Posted by mickeylynn
Especially since every other post is from the J&M guy.
not going there
Originally Posted by mickeylynn
But while I was reading it reminded me that I have a set of Polk speakers still in the box that my husband bought and ended up not using. I went digging and sure enough they are the 6.5s. I did at least read that I would need to countersink for the screws. I was thinking of pairing w/ one of the little Rockford Fosgate amps.
great combination IMO
Originally Posted by mickeylynn
So w/ that said and I'm sure it's in this thread somewhere and I apologize for asking but what size screws would I need since longer screws are suggested? What else would I need besides the speakers and amp (just doing the 2 in the fairing)? Do you think the RF amp will be a good pairing? Oh yeah, I'll probably get the deeper covers as well from Harley.
I don't think you'll need longer screws if you're referring to the screws that hold the speaker in the pod. Once you countersink the 4 holes a little bit in the speaker ring they should still be long enough. If not, take the screw with you to Home Depot or Ace Hardware and match the diameter/thread pitch with a 1/4" longer screw.
The amp will be a good fit both physically and with these speakers. You'll be pleased with the upgrade no doubt.
As for what else you'll need; nothing more than about 15ft of 10ga power wire to run your + and - to the battery, a fuse holder to install on the + wire at the battery, and a 25A fuse.
Then follow the sticky atop the audio section for adjusting your gains.
As for what else you'll need; nothing more than about 15ft of 10ga power wire to run your + and - to the battery, a fuse holder to install on the + wire at the battery, and a 25A fuse.
Is there a way to cleanly run the wire to the battery w/o removing the tank? I just that mentioned as well.
Is there a way to cleanly run the wire to the battery w/o removing the tank? I just that mentioned as well.
hehe.. you'll have more trouble sticking Velcro on your amp and mounting it than you will getting the tank off. It's easy...
2 bolts in front of the tank at the neck under black rubber covers
2 bolts under the nose of the seat at the back of the tank
quick disconnect fuel line. Push up on the chrome sleeve and pull down on the connector and it pops right out and you spill maybe 2 drops of fuel. slide tank back about 2" and lift it off. Best to do when tank is not full so ride it! :-)
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