Poyfill wrapping how thick?
#1
11-06-2013, 09:27 AM
Poyfill wrapping how thick?
UN guide said three layers of thin polyfill to wrap the speaker with...so how thin of a layer we are talking about? I have 1" thick polyfill, how many layers I need to wrap with my 1" polyfill?
Oh yeah, how many times will bolt and the female thread endure abuse? I must've opened and closed my fairing more than 20 times already...LOL!! OCD....
Oh yeah, how many times will bolt and the female thread endure abuse? I must've opened and closed my fairing more than 20 times already...LOL!! OCD....
Last edited by uwiik; 11-06-2013 at 09:40 AM.
#2
11-07-2013, 07:11 AM
the 3 layers is referring to the thin polyfil that is about 1/16" thick. In your case 1 layer is all you need sir.
Oh and the fairing, I've had mine off at least 100 times since August of last year. As long as your screws thread properly, no worries. If something happens, go figure HD as an upgraded brass insert. LOL
Oh and the fairing, I've had mine off at least 100 times since August of last year. As long as your screws thread properly, no worries. If something happens, go figure HD as an upgraded brass insert. LOL
#3
11-07-2013, 07:40 AM
the 3 layers is referring to the thin polyfil that is about 1/16" thick. In your case 1 layer is all you need sir.
Oh and the fairing, I've had mine off at least 100 times since August of last year. As long as your screws thread properly, no worries. If something happens, go figure HD as an upgraded brass insert. LOL
Oh and the fairing, I've had mine off at least 100 times since August of last year. As long as your screws thread properly, no worries. If something happens, go figure HD as an upgraded brass insert. LOL
#4
11-07-2013, 07:49 AM
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A couple times back I was reassembling my fairing and noticed one of the screws just didn't feel right, it was too hard to turn. It was one of the two up under the inner fairing and I am sure that with the difficulty of getting it in there I cross threaded it. Before going any further I took the fairing back off and was going to clean up the threads with a bottom tap but that size was missing from my tool box. I put the screw in the hole and turned it backwards in the direction of unscrewing it until I felt it "click" into the first thread then carefully changed directions and screwed it in and could tell by looking and feeling it was not crossthreaded this time. Then I removed the screw, blew out the threads with WD-40, then checked it again, it went it easily, and re-assembled everything. With the brass threads it is better to turn the screw backwards until you feel it seat, same with replacing self tapping screws in plastic, turn backwards until the screw catches the original threads then turn in direction to tighten. Screws in plastic, wood, fiberglass, etc if ya don't do this eventually you wear them out.
#5
11-07-2013, 07:57 AM
A couple times back I was reassembling my fairing and noticed one of the screws just didn't feel right, it was too hard to turn. It was one of the two up under the inner fairing and I am sure that with the difficulty of getting it in there I cross threaded it. Before going any further I took the fairing back off and was going to clean up the threads with a bottom tap but that size was missing from my tool box. I put the screw in the hole and turned it backwards in the direction of unscrewing it until I felt it "click" into the first thread then carefully changed directions and screwed it in and could tell by looking and feeling it was not crossthreaded this time. Then I removed the screw, blew out the threads with WD-40, then checked it again, it went it easily, and re-assembled everything. With the brass threads it is better to turn the screw backwards until you feel it seat, same with replacing self tapping screws in plastic, turn backwards until the screw catches the original threads then turn in direction to tighten. Screws in plastic, wood, fiberglass, etc if ya don't do this eventually you wear them out.
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