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You are correct, sir. I buggered a lot of screws through the years before some kind soul pointed out the error of my ways. I bought a cheap set of JIS screwdrivers off Amazon. They work great.
Personally I think that 99% of the problems are based on 2 things.
1. You can use a Philips but it has to be the right size. The problem stems from people using the wrong size to start, say a #1 where a #2 fits better.
2. Most screws are into aluminum or some zinc alloy. The screws oxidize in place and stick. Generally a little tap on the screw driver / socket drivers knocks them loose.
Now IIRC this JIS standard happened around the late 60s. The main thing I saw was a standardization of metric thread pitches. I worked mainly has a Honda MC mechanic between 69 and 79. Once I figured out how to get the screws loose, I very really ever had a problem popping a screw loose and if I did it was mainly because the screw and base material were corroded. While I had impacts for stuck screws My main screw driver was a Howa T handle. It was made to pre-JIS specs. More common for me was to break the #2 Snap-on Phillips on stuck screws. I did occasionally use a special ***** punch to remove the really stuck screws.
I guess one of the things to note is that tapping a Philips screw driver into a JIS screw likely made it a Philips screw..
Personally I think that 99% of the problems are based on 2 things.
1. You can use a Philips but it has to be the right size. The problem stems from people using the wrong size to start, say a #1 where a #2 fits better.
2. Most screws are into aluminum or some zinc alloy. The screws oxidize in place and stick. Generally a little tap on the screw driver / socket drivers knocks them loose.
Now IIRC this JIS standard happened around the late 60s. The main thing I saw was a standardization of metric thread pitches. I worked mainly has a Honda MC mechanic between 69 and 79. Once I figured out how to get the screws loose, I very really ever had a problem popping a screw loose and if I did it was mainly because the screw and base material were corroded. While I had impacts for stuck screws My main screw driver was a Howa T handle. It was made to pre-JIS specs. More common for me was to break the #2 Snap-on Phillips on stuck screws. I did occasionally use a special ***** punch to remove the really stuck screws.
I guess one of the things to note is that tapping a Philips screw driver into a JIS screw likely made it a Philips screw..
Honda made screws out of old chewing gum I think. They were soft.
mr. max makes a fine point
an ole trick i use is to use johnson paste wax on the screws. when it dries, it acts as a mild thread lock but yet, you can take the screws out without a hand impact. it also prevents corrosion. an important step is to make sure the holes are squeaky clean every time.
Full 99% of the screws I got out were with the 2 T handles.. I could feel the tops break loose first then the threads. I never stripped any screws out that weren't already damaged.. If really stuck, tap the end of the T handle with a hammer. The CP was used for lots of screws like engine covers. The sharp pin punch for points cover screws where someone bunged up the head. Had multiple 3/8 socket drive #2 and #3 Phillips. Snap-on guy would come by and replace the worn tips for free. The hammer impact was the least used.
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