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I found another method:
set the advance mark in the window
ignition on
ground the front spark plug where you can see it
set the ignition plate where when you rotate the advance back a spark occurs.
How accurate do you think that would be?
I never considered marking anything outside for timing, but couldn't I mark the pulley and the inner primary at the advance mark?
As long as I put the pulley on the same splines every time i might take it off, wouldnt that be the same as seeing the mark on the flywheel?
Timing should be good.. the motor sounds healthy... Nice job. You can also check the ground strap on the spark plugs for timing. They're will be a small whitish band across there strap.. in the middle is good...
Been riding it around, doing the shakedown process and I've discovered a few things.
The ultima copy of the super g works ok, but wont stop leaking from the bowl drain. Multiple o-ring changes and still leaks. There's another screw down there that also leaks despite multiple gasket changes.
When they say the 3 ohm coils are for racing and not street they really mean it. Seems to have fried some of my plugs. So I replaced the plugs, and the coils with the 5 ohm street versions. It's running good again.
Other than those things there's been no issues.
The foot clutch hand shifting is lots of fun although a bit hectic in city traffic, but not too much so.
Sounds like your float levels in the carb are off and I think you got a backwards on five ohm coils... Three ohm for street five ohm for racing.. Unless you're running points that is because the old ignition systems shovel heads etc required five ohm coils..
Sounds like your float levels in the carb are off and I think you got a backwards on five ohm coils... Three ohm for street five ohm for racing.. Unless you're running points that is because the old ignition systems shovel heads etc required five ohm coils..
Nope, I run 5's on my dual plugs also with the Dyna-S, 3 ohm tend to foul plugs in a street engine with that particular ignition.
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