Waxing and buffing with a rotary polisher
Thread Starter
|
Tourer
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 320
Likes: 47
From: Twin Lakes, WI
Waxing and buffing with a rotary polisher
How does one go about using an attachment that goes on a drill or Dremel to buff wax on motorcycle? I've seen sponge like attachments and furry attachments. Maybe there are wool attachments. What's the method and what do you use?
Is there a difference between waxing and polishing? Can you wipe Meguires or some other polish on a tank or fender and wipe it in? Won't that change the color?
Is there a difference between waxing and polishing? Can you wipe Meguires or some other polish on a tank or fender and wipe it in? Won't that change the color?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 7,709
Likes: 7,850
From: New York
If you are thinking of taking a device not specifically designed to wax/polish and modify it was an "attachment", good luck with that! My guess is, if you're lucky, you will only end up with swirl marks in the paint. Even using a dedicated waxer/polisher that is not "random orbital" can result in swirls if you don't keep the thing moving. Not to mention, a bike has enough nooks & crannies, that old fashioned elbow grease is probably still the best method for doing a bike.
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 59
Likes: 17
From: York, PA
Do not use one of those attachments for the drill, all you'll end up doing is putting swirls in the paint.
There is a difference between polishing and waxing. Polishing is actually removing a very small amount of paint to remove imperfections (swirls, scratches, hazing, etc.) where waxing is simply applying a protective coating and is not used as a correction to the imperfection. The only exception is the 'cleaner/waxes' that are popping up from time to time.
If you really would like a buffer, spend the money on one of these, I've used mine on countless bikes and it's still running strong:
http://www.autogeek.net/griots-orbital-polisher.html
Relatively inexpensive, pads are inexpensive, and it does a fantastic job for light corrections, polishing, and waxing based on the pads you get and the products you use.
There is a difference between polishing and waxing. Polishing is actually removing a very small amount of paint to remove imperfections (swirls, scratches, hazing, etc.) where waxing is simply applying a protective coating and is not used as a correction to the imperfection. The only exception is the 'cleaner/waxes' that are popping up from time to time.
If you really would like a buffer, spend the money on one of these, I've used mine on countless bikes and it's still running strong:
http://www.autogeek.net/griots-orbital-polisher.html
Relatively inexpensive, pads are inexpensive, and it does a fantastic job for light corrections, polishing, and waxing based on the pads you get and the products you use.
Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,355
Likes: 32
From: Houston, Texas
If you have to ask these kinds of questions, then trying them on the bike is not a good idea. No offense intended, but not knowing difference between was and polish is a basic, fundamental distinction and use of them in a proper manner can either make a great looking bike even better -- or trash the finish potentially beyond remediation. Since the bike doesn't have many large flat surfaces, stick with doing it by hand and leave the orbital buffers to professionals.
Advanced
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 59
Likes: 17
From: York, PA
I disagree for a couple of reasons.
First, the line between polish and wax has become very blurry, almost every manufacturer has at least one cleaner/wax or polish/wax. Also, with all of the information on the internet from reliable sources, it won't take long to do some research and find the distinctions between the two and find one that suits his needs. I would definitely recommend Autogeek.net as they have many beginner videos to help the newbie pick the right equipment and products and show them how to use it.
Second, 'orbital' buffers are the easiest to use. RO/DA buffers can sit on the same spot on paint and never burn through. It could scratch, haze, or hologram, but only after repeated poor application. If we were talking about a rotary buffer, that's a different story. I would recommend getting an old hood and practice on that before hitting the bike, but we're not talking about rotary, we're talking about RO/DA buffers.
We should be encouraging people to do these types of things, give a little guidance, and let them try it on their own. Detailing a bike can be a very relaxing experience, in fact I find great peace in detailing motorcycles. It's also very satisfying to see the results of what some time, effort, and the right products will do for a finish.
First, the line between polish and wax has become very blurry, almost every manufacturer has at least one cleaner/wax or polish/wax. Also, with all of the information on the internet from reliable sources, it won't take long to do some research and find the distinctions between the two and find one that suits his needs. I would definitely recommend Autogeek.net as they have many beginner videos to help the newbie pick the right equipment and products and show them how to use it.
Second, 'orbital' buffers are the easiest to use. RO/DA buffers can sit on the same spot on paint and never burn through. It could scratch, haze, or hologram, but only after repeated poor application. If we were talking about a rotary buffer, that's a different story. I would recommend getting an old hood and practice on that before hitting the bike, but we're not talking about rotary, we're talking about RO/DA buffers.
We should be encouraging people to do these types of things, give a little guidance, and let them try it on their own. Detailing a bike can be a very relaxing experience, in fact I find great peace in detailing motorcycles. It's also very satisfying to see the results of what some time, effort, and the right products will do for a finish.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 9,281
Likes: 1,139
From: southeast PA
A bike has very little surface area compared to a car. If you're not familiar with using power tools, even the ones specially designed to do waxing and polishing, I think you're better off doing it by hand. There's not a lot of flat surface on these bikes and you'll get a better feel for the shapes and contours.
Tourer
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 488
Likes: 25
From: Orlando, FL
As someone else pointed out, go to autogeek.net. You will learn more about detailing than you ever wanted to know but your scoot and cars will look incredible. I have a Flex 3401 and a Griots 3 inch polisher and only use them every other year to polish. Wax is different than Polish. Wax protects and does nothing to correct paint imperfections. Polish corrects paint imperfections such as small scratches, swirls, marring and dullness. What you are asking about will most likely cause damage.
Trending Topics
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,213
Likes: 37
From: florida
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
10 Motorcycles You Should Never Buy
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Harley-Davidson Needs to Fix in 2026
Verdad Gallardo
Southpaw Super Glide: A Left-Hand-Drive 1979 Harley FXE Built to Fit the Rider
Verdad Gallardo
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 4,377
Likes: 647
From: Santa Clarita
I'm with the folks who espouse simplicity and caution against power polishing tools, most especially the tools that you add to something not designed for the task at hand. If you are committed to machine finishing, commit to getting the correct tool! And without some real hands on experience...and you don't get that on the World Wide Web, but you CAN get some good tips there...you stand the chance of REALLY fouling up the finish on your motorcycle!
For many years, polishing/buffing/yada yada was done by HAND on all the very best custom cars out there. Technology advanced, and that's not so much the case any more. However, on our motorcycles, with a relatively small surface area that's visible to the world, hand finishing is still more than efficient! Advances in clay bar technology have made it easier than ever to maintain the paint on a Harley...
Speaking of which...the clear coat on most vehicles today...including our own OE Harley finishes...is thinner than you may be aware of. Polishing/buffing/compounding removes some of that every time you do it, and it doesn't take a whole lot to roll right thru the clear coat into the base. Therefore, I recommend that folks stay away from machines, unless you're experienced!
For many years, polishing/buffing/yada yada was done by HAND on all the very best custom cars out there. Technology advanced, and that's not so much the case any more. However, on our motorcycles, with a relatively small surface area that's visible to the world, hand finishing is still more than efficient! Advances in clay bar technology have made it easier than ever to maintain the paint on a Harley...
Speaking of which...the clear coat on most vehicles today...including our own OE Harley finishes...is thinner than you may be aware of. Polishing/buffing/compounding removes some of that every time you do it, and it doesn't take a whole lot to roll right thru the clear coat into the base. Therefore, I recommend that folks stay away from machines, unless you're experienced!
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,306
Likes: 864
From: Sheboygan, WI
Another vote for doing it by hand here. There's so little surface area to care for, and so much stuff in the way that I would have to remove to get a polisher at some of it that I'd rather do it by hand. Not to mention tank badges and lights, etc. to work around.