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I hope that someone can point me in the right direction. I put a new seat on the bike last Year, and it is slimmer than the stock seat. The paint on the tank where the stock seat rested looks dull, and the side covers (although not painted) are also dull where the stock seat rested. Does anyone know of any products, or procedures, that will add the shine back to those areas of the tank. I'm not sure what can be done about the side covers, but if there are recommendations for those it would be appreciated. Thank you in advance!
I hope that someone can point me in the right direction. I put a new seat on the bike last Year, and it is slimmer than the stock seat. The paint on the tank where the stock seat rested looks dull, and the side covers (although not painted) are also dull where the stock seat rested. Does anyone know of any products, or procedures, that will add the shine back to those areas of the tank. I'm not sure what can be done about the side covers, but if there are recommendations for those it would be appreciated. Thank you in advance!
some great folks will be around to give you better advice than I could, but check out the recent thread i started in the detailing section here, there are things you can do without buying a ton of tools and investing a lot of money
regardless of what you do, you're going to have to get it cleaned properly, once you do that, a lot of guys use old fashioned elbow grease and a correcting polish of choice
If I'm not mistaken, I thought eagle had mentioned something about him needing to do some correcting on side covers, mine are less than perfect as well
another great resource for great info, both on the site and youtube videos is autogeek....look for videos of them correcting swirling, light scratches, etc and you'll start to see where your solution lies....they probably even have some tips on correcting by hand
good luck
Last edited by CaffeineBuzz; Mar 18, 2021 at 09:23 PM.
I polished my side cover last week, along with the rest of the bike. I use a 6 inch polisher with a 3in backing plate, either way works.
A test spot will tell how aggressive you need to be with pad/product selection to get the desired results. Always use the least aggressive method to achieve the results you are looking for
some great folks will be around to give you better advice than I could, but check out the recent thread i started in the detailing section here, there are things you can do without buying a ton of tools and investing a lot of money
regardless of what you do, you're going to have to get it cleaned properly, once you do that, a lot of guys use old fashioned elbow grease and a correcting polish of choice
If I'm not mistaken, I thought eagle had mentioned something about him needing to do some correcting on side covers, mine are less than perfect as well
another great resource for great info, both on the site and youtube videos is autogeek....look for videos of them correcting swirling, light scratches, etc and you'll start to see where your solution lies....they probably even have some tips on correcting by hand
I detail on the side as a hobby. Just recently did my black street glide and black cobra. This yr I tried some new products that are very affordable and worth the investment. I use a 5.5 polisher on everything. Could use a smaller one but I succeeded with this. I use a Lake Country Hybrid Orange pad as a one step pad and 3M Hybrid one step polish. Just take your time with this combo and you won't have to change pads or polish. Its very simple. The prep is key. I wash the bike using the 2 bucket method and only with a microfiber mit. I then clay bar the entire surface of the paint which is very quick and easy. Then on to polishing. Now allot of people went to ceramic coating, which is outstanding stuff!!! BUT, people don't realize you have to maintain it. If you don't it looks like hell!! And if you get some sort of scratch or nick it is a process to take it off then reapply. This yr I went a different direction and was blown away. I used Wolfgangs 3.0 paint sealant and Adams Slick and Slide as a drying agent. This combo made my paint pop and gave it crazy slickness to the paint with drying abilities that of a ceramic. The wolfgangs can be used as a stand alone but I like to mess with different combos. Both can be had for around $50 for the pair. And they go a long way. After this is done you want to avoid touching the bike to clean it as much as possible. I use a foam cannon and never need to touch the bike. If I don't wash it and it just has some road dust, I use the Adams Slick and Slide as it is a detail spray/drying agent.
I detail on the side as a hobby. Just recently did my black street glide and black cobra. This yr I tried some new products that are very affordable and worth the investment. I use a 5.5 polisher on everything. Could use a smaller one but I succeeded with this. I use a Lake Country Hybrid Orange pad as a one step pad and 3M Hybrid one step polish. Just take your time with this combo and you won't have to change pads or polish. Its very simple. The prep is key. I wash the bike using the 2 bucket method and only with a microfiber mit. I then clay bar the entire surface of the paint which is very quick and easy. Then on to polishing. Now allot of people went to ceramic coating, which is outstanding stuff!!! BUT, people don't realize you have to maintain it. If you don't it looks like hell!! And if you get some sort of scratch or nick it is a process to take it off then reapply. This yr I went a different direction and was blown away. I used Wolfgangs 3.0 paint sealant and Adams Slick and Slide as a drying agent. This combo made my paint pop and gave it crazy slickness to the paint with drying abilities that of a ceramic. The wolfgangs can be used as a stand alone but I like to mess with different combos. Both can be had for around $50 for the pair. And they go a long way. After this is done you want to avoid touching the bike to clean it as much as possible. I use a foam cannon and never need to touch the bike. If I don't wash it and it just has some road dust, I use the Adams Slick and Slide as it is a detail spray/drying agent.
I stay far away from 3M stuff. They might have improved from before but I highly doubt they are as good as the top dogs. Sounds like they made a product like 3D ONE. They are geared towards body shop stuff, not detailing. DGPS has been out for a long time and its very good. Im not a Adams guy, or fanboy, but their tire cleaner is good. As far as the maintaining the coating, I let all my customers know what the deal is on maintenance of it. Hell you should maintain DGPS. As far as getting imperfections in a coating, this is what Essence+ is for. Did you do the baggie test before claying? If you needed to clay Iron X would have been a good idea first.
Here is where you lost me : "After this is done you want to avoid touching the bike to clean it as much as possible. I use a foam cannon and never need to touch the bike. If I don't wash it and it just has some road dust, I use the Adams Slick and Slide as it is a detail spray/drying agent.[/QUOTE]"
If your wiping off road dust with the Adams stuff, do you really think mechanically washing the paint, after being foamed, would cause more issues then your Adams routine???
I stay far away from 3M stuff. They might have improved from before but I highly doubt they are as good as the top dogs. Sounds like they made a product like 3D ONE. They are geared towards body shop stuff, not detailing. DGPS has been out for a long time and its very good. Im not a Adams guy, or fanboy, but their tire cleaner is good. As far as the maintaining the coating, I let all my customers know what the deal is on maintenance of it. Hell you should maintain DGPS. As far as getting imperfections in a coating, this is what Essence+ is for. Did you do the baggie test before claying? If you needed to clay Iron X would have been a good idea first.
Here is where you lost me : "After this is done you want to avoid touching the bike to clean it as much as possible. I use a foam cannon and never need to touch the bike. If I don't wash it and it just has some road dust, I use the Adams Slick and Slide as it is a detail spray/drying agent.
"
If your wiping off road dust with the Adams stuff, do you really think mechanically washing the paint, after being foamed, would cause more issues then your Adams routine???[/QUOTE]
Well I thought i would never strike a nerve sharing experiences here. Have you used 3M 3D one? Have you used any Adams products? It really doesn't matter if you did or not, im not pushing either products im just explaining what i use. I'm just explaining to the OP what works for me, and this process works for me and works well. I don't think OP is looking to be a professional he just wanted some insight. Wiping dirt and grime off CAN cause small imperfections in your paint over time, thats a no brainer hence why some people have to do corrections in the first place. All I know is what i use and my paint looks good. So why not share what works for me???? Even top ceramic coatings will get imperfections if washed improperly.
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