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Old Feb 6, 2015 | 07:42 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by monster715
The newer bikes don't have a jack shaft seal

That explains why he wasn't able to find it then.....
 
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Old Feb 6, 2015 | 08:51 PM
  #42  
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OK, speaking of sh** happens and because I do make mistakes(not ready to walk on water yet!), I just realized that I need another part.

The part is a bushing that goes inside the shifter shaft tunnel of the inner primary(HD #34982-02A). Looking at the parts manual it looks like you only need one but you need two, one of them comes installed with the outer primary but you need to buy the other one separately. I called my HD Dealer and they do not have it in stock, so it will be a few days until it comes in. Here s a pic of the bushing in the outer primary:


 
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Old Feb 6, 2015 | 09:29 PM
  #43  
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Did install the new transmission shifter lever with blue Loctite and torqued to 18-22 ft-lbs. Next I went ahead and installed the shifter rod and the gear shifter shaft that will go through the tunnel in the inner and outer primaries. There is no torrque value for the little nut fasteners, (would be hard to utilize a torque wrench anyway) so I just used a little blue Loctite and tightened "snug". Not much else to do on this side for awhile except cleaning threads, etc...


 
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Old Feb 6, 2015 | 09:36 PM
  #44  
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I was just mentioning the shift rod linkage to someone the other day, glad you brought it up. I think the same engineer designed the Amish Throttle Lock Device. It's just kinda funky, that's all I'm saying.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2015 | 10:01 PM
  #45  
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Decided to finish the brake side today. First I screwed in the brake rod into the little internally threaded push rod that extends out of the brake control boot. This is where you can adjust the height of the rear brake lever. Once everything is installed just make sure the lock nut is loose then rotate the push rod with a 7/16" wrench. When you have it where you want it, tighten down the lock nut with a 1/2" wrench. The HD SM does state not to have more than 9 threads showing to the right of the lock nut.




Next you want to hook up that brake rod to the brake pedal which is already attached to the footrest support. Don't install the footrest support first or you will be unable to install the clevis pin that holds the brake rod in place...




Install and torque down the footrest mounting screws 30-40 ft-lbs, and put on your foot pegs of choice!


 

Last edited by HD Pilot; Feb 6, 2015 at 10:04 PM.
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Old Feb 6, 2015 | 11:49 PM
  #46  
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This is a great thread! I am about to do this on my low rider. Ive got the mids, just need to get an outer primary now and then the time to do it all. Im thinking of just installing the pegs and riding with those for a few weeks and seeing what I think before soing the whole switch.
 
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Old Feb 8, 2015 | 09:42 AM
  #47  
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Very nice!!! As stated before, I'm just beginning this project. I was out of town for work, and had most of the parts waiting for me when I got back. I still need the bushing for the inner primary, and the shift linkage as well, but I'm VERY pleased to report that the rear brake assembly installs just fine with the Big Radius 2-1's in place!!!

Stych
 
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Old Feb 8, 2015 | 07:01 PM
  #48  
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The jam nut on the brake rod is tightened up against the adjuster on the master cylinder, opposite end of where you have it pictured. Just wanted to make sure you have the jam nut in the right place. Ugly things can happen if its not. Again awesome write up!
 
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Old Feb 8, 2015 | 07:13 PM
  #49  
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Disregard my last. I reread the write up, you got it correct. MY bad. (pic threw me off)
 
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Old Feb 8, 2015 | 07:14 PM
  #50  
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Great write up! Keep the pictures coming!
 
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