Front Turn Signal Relocation on 2014 Fat Bob
Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
From: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Sorry to be a pain.....
If I use the Harley recommended process and cut the signal light wires below the grommet going into the switch housing, then I need to solder a length of wire (3) to the cut wire coming out of the signal light. I then attach the terminal socket ends to the new wire I just soldered and feed it into the frame through the large grommet holes. Once fed into there I attach the socket assembly plugs then plug the 2 signal lights in to the White and Black terminal already setup in the harness that I pulled out of the underside of the back bone
Also are the wires coming from the signal lights the same color as the ones connected to the white and black plugs in the back bone, if not how do you tell which ones go into which hole of the new socket ends that I put on the wires from the signal light?.
Is this correct?
Thanks....Rob
If I use the Harley recommended process and cut the signal light wires below the grommet going into the switch housing, then I need to solder a length of wire (3) to the cut wire coming out of the signal light. I then attach the terminal socket ends to the new wire I just soldered and feed it into the frame through the large grommet holes. Once fed into there I attach the socket assembly plugs then plug the 2 signal lights in to the White and Black terminal already setup in the harness that I pulled out of the underside of the back bone
Also are the wires coming from the signal lights the same color as the ones connected to the white and black plugs in the back bone, if not how do you tell which ones go into which hole of the new socket ends that I put on the wires from the signal light?.
Is this correct?
Thanks....Rob
Last edited by romac; May 3, 2015 at 06:02 AM.
Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
From: North Metro Indianapolis
Rob,
No need to cut anything if you dig out the black and white connectors from the backbone.
You'll be working with little slack, but with patience you can accomplish this without cutting, splicing, or soldering.
Once you drop the plastic filler cover in the bottom side of the backbone (above the front rocker box), tug the wiring harnesses until you find the white and black, 3-conductor Amp Connectors. Wrap each wire above the connector with blue painters tape or masking tape and label the harness W or B. Photograph each connector to show the color code/position of each wire, noting orientation of the plug.
The plug has two locks. The first is a hinged lock at the rear of the plug. It's held by two tabs with holes on each side of the plug. I use two jewelers screwdrivers to gently pry out the tabs, and swing the hinged lock down. The individual pins or barrels are held by tangs.
If you Google "Amp Multilock", click on the images tab, you'll find several pics of how to unlock the tang from the pin. I use a very small jewelers screwdriver. The first time you jack with these connectors can be intimidating, but once you learn them, and always excercise patience, they become easy to deal with.
Follow the above directions once the connectors are removed and fish the wiring harnesses out of the backbone, handlebars, and switch housings.
Once your sigs are relocated to new position, work backwards and route / zip-tie the harnesses, re-connecting the Amp connectors last. Reconnect the harnesses and stuff the excess harness back into the neck.
Tim
No need to cut anything if you dig out the black and white connectors from the backbone.
You'll be working with little slack, but with patience you can accomplish this without cutting, splicing, or soldering.
Once you drop the plastic filler cover in the bottom side of the backbone (above the front rocker box), tug the wiring harnesses until you find the white and black, 3-conductor Amp Connectors. Wrap each wire above the connector with blue painters tape or masking tape and label the harness W or B. Photograph each connector to show the color code/position of each wire, noting orientation of the plug.
The plug has two locks. The first is a hinged lock at the rear of the plug. It's held by two tabs with holes on each side of the plug. I use two jewelers screwdrivers to gently pry out the tabs, and swing the hinged lock down. The individual pins or barrels are held by tangs.
If you Google "Amp Multilock", click on the images tab, you'll find several pics of how to unlock the tang from the pin. I use a very small jewelers screwdriver. The first time you jack with these connectors can be intimidating, but once you learn them, and always excercise patience, they become easy to deal with.
Follow the above directions once the connectors are removed and fish the wiring harnesses out of the backbone, handlebars, and switch housings.
Once your sigs are relocated to new position, work backwards and route / zip-tie the harnesses, re-connecting the Amp connectors last. Reconnect the harnesses and stuff the excess harness back into the neck.
Tim
Cruiser
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 178
Likes: 0
From: Texas
Rob,
No need to cut anything if you dig out the black and white connectors from the backbone.
You'll be working with little slack, but with patience you can accomplish this without cutting, splicing, or soldering.
Once you drop the plastic filler cover in the bottom side of the backbone (above the front rocker box), tug the wiring harnesses until you find the white and black, 3-conductor Amp Connectors. Wrap each wire above the connector with blue painters tape or masking tape and label the harness W or B. Photograph each connector to show the color code/position of each wire, noting orientation of the plug.
The plug has two locks. The first is a hinged lock at the rear of the plug. It's held by two tabs with holes on each side of the plug. I use two jewelers screwdrivers to gently pry out the tabs, and swing the hinged lock down. The individual pins or barrels are held by tangs.
If you Google "Amp Multilock", click on the images tab, you'll find several pics of how to unlock the tang from the pin. I use a very small jewelers screwdriver. The first time you jack with these connectors can be intimidating, but once you learn them, and always excercise patience, they become easy to deal with.
Follow the above directions once the connectors are removed and fish the wiring harnesses out of the backbone, handlebars, and switch housings.
Once your sigs are relocated to new position, work backwards and route / zip-tie the harnesses, re-connecting the Amp connectors last. Reconnect the harnesses and stuff the excess harness back into the neck.
Tim
No need to cut anything if you dig out the black and white connectors from the backbone.
You'll be working with little slack, but with patience you can accomplish this without cutting, splicing, or soldering.
Once you drop the plastic filler cover in the bottom side of the backbone (above the front rocker box), tug the wiring harnesses until you find the white and black, 3-conductor Amp Connectors. Wrap each wire above the connector with blue painters tape or masking tape and label the harness W or B. Photograph each connector to show the color code/position of each wire, noting orientation of the plug.
The plug has two locks. The first is a hinged lock at the rear of the plug. It's held by two tabs with holes on each side of the plug. I use two jewelers screwdrivers to gently pry out the tabs, and swing the hinged lock down. The individual pins or barrels are held by tangs.
If you Google "Amp Multilock", click on the images tab, you'll find several pics of how to unlock the tang from the pin. I use a very small jewelers screwdriver. The first time you jack with these connectors can be intimidating, but once you learn them, and always excercise patience, they become easy to deal with.
Follow the above directions once the connectors are removed and fish the wiring harnesses out of the backbone, handlebars, and switch housings.
Once your sigs are relocated to new position, work backwards and route / zip-tie the harnesses, re-connecting the Amp connectors last. Reconnect the harnesses and stuff the excess harness back into the neck.
Tim
Last edited by TX Rebel; May 3, 2015 at 12:19 PM.
Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 108
Likes: 0
From: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
I did talk to one of the mechanics at the Harley Dealer and he told me on the new bikes you need to cut the wire at the Sig because of the way they have set everything up (Electrical Banks??). He told me I had to run a wire or buy new reflectors. I never really got a clear understanding about what to do with or how to run the wire. I then re-read the instruction sheet that Tex Rebel provided which showed new reflectors in the Relocation Kit (the Harley Dealer said they are not provided in the new kit).
So the question is do I run new wire from the sigs and attach new ends and plug them into the White and Black connectors.?
I'm assuming the colors of the wires coming from the Signal Light are that same as the ones attached to the White and Black plugs.....anyone know?
Thanks......Rob
So the question is do I run new wire from the sigs and attach new ends and plug them into the White and Black connectors.?
I'm assuming the colors of the wires coming from the Signal Light are that same as the ones attached to the White and Black plugs.....anyone know?
Thanks......Rob
Cruiser
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 178
Likes: 0
From: Texas
I did talk to one of the mechanics at the Harley Dealer and he told me on the new bikes you need to cut the wire at the Sig because of the way they have set everything up (Electrical Banks??). He told me I had to run a wire or buy new reflectors. I never really got a clear understanding about what to do with or how to run the wire. I then re-read the instruction sheet that Tex Rebel provided which showed new reflectors in the Relocation Kit (the Harley Dealer said they are not provided in the new kit).
So the question is do I run new wire from the sigs and attach new ends and plug them into the White and Black connectors.?
I'm assuming the colors of the wires coming from the Signal Light are that same as the ones attached to the White and Black plugs.....anyone know?
Thanks......Rob
So the question is do I run new wire from the sigs and attach new ends and plug them into the White and Black connectors.?
I'm assuming the colors of the wires coming from the Signal Light are that same as the ones attached to the White and Black plugs.....anyone know?
Thanks......Rob
If the dealer is selling 69433-08A it should have new reflectors in the kit, item 10 Socket assembly part#68904-00. If they are selling 69433-08 without the A then it won't have them.
You can just extend the wires on your lights if you are not buying the kit.
Wires should be the same color on the white and black plugs.
Here is the right answer to keep wrong information from spreading.
If you google J05467 you will find a PDF that is straight from the manual. The cutting of the turn signal IS A MUST for 2012+ models. I just did this to my 2015. When you open up the signal housing you will notice the wiring end at the housing bottom line.
I can go on and on but the manual speaks the truth.
I will try to link it here http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j..._ZF2aaN7k3Smcg
If you google J05467 you will find a PDF that is straight from the manual. The cutting of the turn signal IS A MUST for 2012+ models. I just did this to my 2015. When you open up the signal housing you will notice the wiring end at the housing bottom line.
I can go on and on but the manual speaks the truth.
I will try to link it here http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j..._ZF2aaN7k3Smcg
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