Let me start by saying I’m no mechanic and a good mechanicwouldn’t even want me as a helper. Ihave a 2009 Super Glide Custom with 7,500 miles. I bought it used in 2012 with 1,300 miles and have not changed the battery , so I feelpretty certain it still has the original battery. I don’t get to ride a lot (as the mileageproves), so I keep it on tender any time it’s in the garage. Recently it seems harder to start, more soafter I’ve ridden somewhere. It alwaysstarts but it may turn over for 3 or 4 seconds before it starts and at timesseem to turn over slower than I think it should. Today I rode for 30 minutes and let it set for10 minutes. I started it several timesin a row and each time it started pretty normal about five minutes later Itried again and this time it turned over for 3-4 sec without starting . I tried again and it seemed to turn over muchslower but did start. I have twoquestions.

One, I think it’s time to get a new battery, any recommendationon where and type of battery I should get. I have an Auto Zone nearby and a Motorcycle Super Store and a Batteryplus Bulbs not too far away. I see theBattery plus has a Duracell Ultra AGM for $125 and an Xtreme AGM for $95. Any suggestions on what and where? I also have two Harley dealers within an easydrive.

Second, does this starting issue sound like it could becaused by a weak battery? Once it startsit seems to run just fine.

Anyway, thanks for taking the time to read and for anyadvice you may offer. Emmo

 

My two cents.

May help somewhere. Note last paragraph on starting.

Rev. 081815

Remember, the best made brand new battery that has been on a maintenance charger for 3 days that has a loose or bad connection is no better then a boat anchor with a loose rope. The connection can get loose after one ride if the battery is not anchored and the wires are short and get tugged in a direction that can unscrew the bolts.

After a good 24+ hour maintenance low amperage charge, with the charge light in the solid green and the battery has set about 24 hours off charge, voltage should be about 12.8 volts.
12.8 = full charged
12.6 = 75% charged
12.3 = 50% charged (Lot of new modern cars with system protection will not even click at this point but will have good headlight beams showing)
12.0 =25% charged

Always check both the terminals at the battery lead and also at the terminal on the wire. That helps to verify connection.
With a DC volt meter (one that has a feature to lock high and low reading is best) hooked across the battery terminals and reading 12.8 or so, crank motor and while its cranking it should not drop below about 9.6 volts and as soon as it starts and throttled up to 2000 rpm, voltage should read around 14.8 volts. The 2000 rpm is the bench mark standard. Ignore idle output. Ignore output above 2000rpm unless it exceeds 14.9 volts. That is a sure indication that regulator is bad.

The crank check shows a rough check of the reserve amperage capacity of the battery while cranking with a 150-200 amp load on it. The 14.8 shows a good alternator and if you leave it on a while as the regulatory will drop the voltage a little showing itself working. However, with the lights and stuff always on, it will never drop back much. If you have a lot of options, most modern bikes will not show 14.8 charging volts at idle but stock newer bikes will be close. Older bikes with lower amperage output not so much. However, 2000 rpm is the bench mark for the standard 14.8 volts.

If you think battery is good and something is draining it sitting, now would be a good time to check for drain problems. Go to Harbor Freight and get you a AC/DC meter for under $25 or so. http://www.harborfreight.com/ac-dc-d...ter-37772.html Make sure it has DC amps draw, DC voltage, resistance and AC voltage. Key off. Remove the negative cable off the battery. Set meter on DC amps. Hook the meter lead to cable and the other to battery. How many milliamps (mA) is it drawing? It should be no more then 6 mA which is the ECM (1), speedometer (1), tac,TSSM (1),HFSM (1) and voltage regulator (1)

When a battery wears out, a good charge will show fairly good voltage, but the battery can still have very low amperage capacity which will show in the crude crank test above, but it really should be checked after a good charge by removing it from bike and getting a free check at a place like AutoZone that has a fancy load meter check that gives you a print out of the battery health. Battery MUST BE CHARGED to check it. Be sure they set their meter to correct cold cranking amperage stated on the battery. Never charge the AGM absorbed glass mat battery with a regular car battery charger unless it is a newer one that says safe with this type of battery. Also, by taking battery out you now know you have good connections. Vibration tends to loosen the connections or a little corrosion will prevent charging or cause starting problems.

Using the maintenance charger can get more years from a battery but be careful here. You do not want the last start 5 miles from home. If it still grunts when you first hit starter or kicks back with a bang, replace it. After a few years, charge and pull battery and have it checked for cold cranking amperage ever spring. Even then, if it grunts most ever start, I would replace it. If they have one that fits your bike, Wal-Mart's AGM absorbed glass mat battery is just as good as any for one third to half the money of a Harley Battery. Do not jump, push start or run bike with a half dead battery except in an emergency. If a bike battery is down and you jump it, throwing all that amps to it from a big car battery especially one that is running can wreck a bike regulator or charging system. Charging a worn out battery can kill alternator stator or the voltage regulator or both. Probably ending in a big dollar repair.

It is also a good idea to always check your battery at 2000 RPM with your meter set to AC. If by chance, the regulator goes bad, sometimes it will let AC come thru. That is a sure sign of a bad regulator. The older stators with two wires are a two phase AC system. Lot of people call it a single phase but it is two phase. The AC voltage you see appears single since you check it AC across the two wires since there is no earth ground. If you were to check one wire to an earth ground, it would show one half the voltage that you would see when you check the two wires together on the bike. Same with the other. Together they double and are two phase. The newer three-wire system is a 3-phase AC system for the higher amperage output.

Also remember, when starting a Harley, hit the starter and hold it in till it is firing on both cylinders and running before letting up. If you let up before it’s running, quiet often, it actually take an FI motor longer to start. There is a fraction of a second more for a long stroke Harley then a multi-cylinder car for it to get going. If you do not do this, it will kick back with a bang, sneeze thru the intake or crank a lot longer the second time or shame on you the third time. Also, if you have a habit of doing this, the starter solenoid switch contact will only have half the life it could. You cannot hurt the starter. The starter gear has a sprag clutch. There are drive pins in it that as the gas motor catches and run, it outruns the starter motor drive and disengages it from the electric motor. If you hold it in a little too long and listen carefully, you will hear the sprag clutch run up the ramps and slip. Makes a sizzle hum. This will show you your starter sprag clutch is OK.

 

Wow, 9 absolutely confusing paragraphs for a guy that say's he's not a wrench.

No, it's not your battery,, it's still cranking it over.
You should be able to check sparkplugs right? Try getting new plugs, it won't hurt.
Sounds like minor fuel issues, try getting some injector cleaner and running it in a few tank fulls. I don't know what your using for fuel but some cheap grade gas can be just that,, cheap grade gas.
I don't want to turn this into another ethanol/non-oxy thread or an "octane" thread but wise choices in the proper fuel can go a long way to better starting and running issues.

 

Rip, thanks for all the information and the tip on starting. John, thanks for your input. As far a gas, I usually always stop at Marathon and always put in the highest octane at the pump. Thanks all.

 

Also, remember it has a fuel pump that has to run a few seconds to pressurize the system,, turn the key on and listen near the tank or put your hand on the tank (you can feel it). I always wait those few seconds for the fuel pump to stop before I hit the start button.

 

Ripsaw provided some excellent info. However, if it still has the original battery in it, it is time to replace before it goes completely especially when you don't want it to. I replaced my original battery last year. Got 5 years out of it. I got mine from batterymart.com as many members here recommend. The big crank battery is made by the company who makes them for HD at a discounted cost plus free shipping.

 

B.S.
I have the factory battery in my 09 and it's fine. A friend of mine just replaced this year,, the factory battery in his 03 Fatboy.
If the battery is turning the engine over and starting 4 times in an on/off test series and it starts just fine each time,, but the engine starts only after 5 seconds on the 5th try in secession,, it's not the freaking battery.
It's someone that wants his 09 bike to run like a 2015 caddy,,

Gimme a break,,

 

Say what you will john. Not all batteries will last the same amount of time due to a variety of factors. Better safe than sorry and it's cheap piece of mind. He very well may have another issue but he will need a new battery and the time to find that out is not when you are out riding and get stuck. If it is a fueling issue, he may want to try a bit of seafoam in the tank and see if it clears up. Couldn't hurt. By the way, you kiss your wife with that mouth?

 

And that's from a guy who's tag location is;
"Deep in your ol Lady" ?

 

'come and get it' ..and I believe I know why for you JohnMn..but I still Love you man.