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Changing cams - what else do I need?

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Old Nov 14, 2015 | 01:13 AM
  #11  
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Great info here. Will help me when I do mine.

What type of performance improvement does S&S TC3 Cam Plate and Oil Pump offer? Is it a worthwhile upgrade over a late-model ('13-current) stock oil pump and cam plate?
 
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Old Nov 14, 2015 | 09:05 AM
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Old Nov 14, 2015 | 10:00 AM
  #13  
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Quickee are just fine.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2015 | 01:38 PM
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/181604259526
Just picked up this as reading reviews suggest I should consider it.
little by little piece by piece gathering it.
Got the cam bearings (torringtons) and puller installer.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2015 | 02:09 PM
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/131508876728
Might want to include the cam locking tool. best price I could find anywhere. Got it.
Also picked up S+S quickie push rod kit,
S+S cycle hydraulic tappets 33-5350.
that's it for a bit.
still need the cams but enough for now. the list goes on.
 

Last edited by stilup; Nov 14, 2015 at 02:15 PM.
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Old Nov 14, 2015 | 04:20 PM
  #16  
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Reading reviews on the S+S 33-5350 lifters I see that one review states that these are Delphi (GM) made in the USA same as basic Harley "B" early to late 2000's not the same as previous version made to screaming eagle specs.
Also one review states that he had excessive side play in the rollers and lifter clatter and also stated he would of been better off with leaving the stocks in.
Another interesting read is having to adjust 4 full turns from zero back lash rather than the stock Harley 2 1/2 turns from zero lash.
Anyone want to verify the adjustment used.
I will inspect the lifters when they arrive and if there is excessive roller side play they are going back.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2015 | 05:07 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by stilup
Reading reviews on the S+S 33-5350 lifters I see that one review states that these are Delphi (GM) made in the USA same as basic Harley "B" early to late 2000's not the same as previous version made to screaming eagle specs.
Also one review states that he had excessive side play in the rollers and lifter clatter and also stated he would of been better off with leaving the stocks in.
Another interesting read is having to adjust 4 full turns from zero back lash rather than the stock Harley 2 1/2 turns from zero lash.
Anyone want to verify the adjustment used.
I will inspect the lifters when they arrive and if there is excessive roller side play they are going back.
Adjustment by turns is determined by the tpi of the pushrod used. 32 tpi is more turns for .1 than a 24 tpi pushrod. S&S seems to like .140 approximately to yield best preload to reduce lifter noise. I am on the fence of trying the new version of the Woods directional or go with the S&S premium when my 107 build starts. Do not use your crappy stock C lifters and if more than 10k on stock lifters that are even "B" replace them.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2015 | 05:48 PM
  #18  
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http://www.sscycle.com/tech-info/pus...ustment-guide/
I think there is a little confusion on the turns. Hopefully I get proper instructions.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2015 | 08:56 PM
  #19  
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Far be it from me to add to the confusion: http://www.sscycle.com/tech-info/pus...ustment-guide/

Oh, you've already got it!

Yes, well then, there it is.
 
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Old Nov 14, 2015 | 09:33 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by stilup
http://www.sscycle.com/tech-info/pus...ustment-guide/
I think there is a little confusion on the turns. Hopefully I get proper instructions.
The flats they are giving you in the chart are to set to .125
If you don't over analyze it then its really simple. 6 flats is one turn. 32 tpi takes 18 flats. 24 tpi is around 15 flats. That's = .1 depth in lifter. Take it from there.
Here is a quick formula to use
Example 24 tpi
24x.6 =14.4
1÷14.4= .0694
1.4÷.0694= 20.17 flats
 

Last edited by slyedog; Nov 14, 2015 at 09:59 PM.
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