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Changing cams - what else do I need?

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Old Nov 13, 2015 | 12:03 PM
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Default Changing cams - what else do I need?

I'm changing cams in my Dyna with a 96 ci to Andrews 48h cams. The engine has over 42,xxx miles. What else should I be changing when doing the cams? I'm sure there's some parts that are worn and should be changed.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2015 | 01:00 PM
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At 42K+ miles you should consider changing the lifters when swapping cams, and take a close look at the cam chain tension blocks as long as you're in there. The oil pump might also need close inspection. Hope it all goes well for you.
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Old Nov 13, 2015 | 01:06 PM
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Definitely pick up some new cam tensioner shoes. I did lifters and adjustable pushrods as well from S&S. Watch that oil pump! When I did my cam swap I tore up the gears on the oil pump. Apparently you are suppose to detach it from the cam plate, make sure everything is lined up and re-attach. Didnt know about that step and paid for it dearly!
 
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Old Nov 13, 2015 | 01:26 PM
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Do the Cam tensioner shoes. If you can afford it do lifters.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2015 | 02:21 PM
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Here's the list:
- Andrews 48 cams
- S&S adjustable rods w/ new tubes kit(stock don't collapse enough)
- S&S regular or premium lifters(your choice either are great)
- Might as well change the tensioner shoes while in there
- gasket kit for cam change(I like Harley gaskets best)
- new Cam bearings

You should be set for a solid setup.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2015 | 02:43 PM
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Also don't forget the o-rings which need to be replaced. Only a few cents each. Not sure if they will be the same part numbers but here's a link to my cam change thread which had a complete list.

If replacing your cam chest bearings, you'll need a puller/installer

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...am-change.html

Have fun!
 
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Old Nov 13, 2015 | 03:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Mattster
I'm changing cams in my Dyna with a 96 ci to Andrews 48h cams. The engine has over 42,xxx miles. What else should I be changing when doing the cams? I'm sure there's some parts that are worn and should be changed.
If you are doing it yourself, you will need to replace the cam brgs with the Torrington/koyo brgs and the remove tool and an install tool. You will also need the lifter magnets if not pulling the tappet covers. If you don't replace the push rods you will need some rocker box gaskets and you should replace the o-rings and breathers in the rocker boxes. Inspect the oil pump face plate and replace oil pump if you find scoring on the face. Follow the manual on installing and aligning the pump before tightening. Not a difficult job but mistakes can get costly real fast.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2015 | 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by jaxdwg
If you are doing it yourself, you will need to replace the cam brgs with the Torrington/koyo brgs and the remove tool and an install tool. You will also need the lifter magnets if not pulling the tappet covers. If you don't replace the push rods you will need some rocker box gaskets and you should replace the o-rings and breathers in the rocker boxes. Inspect the oil pump face plate and replace oil pump if you find scoring on the face. Follow the manual on installing and aligning the pump before tightening. Not a difficult job but mistakes can get costly real fast.
Sometimes I learn the hard way......but I still learn!
 
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Old Nov 13, 2015 | 05:58 PM
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When I put in 48's I found out that if you change out the head gaskets to 030 you can re-use the original solid pushrods, as the base circle of the 48's is slightly smaller than the base circle of the stock cams. I also read that the thinner HG improves the squish characteristics of the combustion chamber. You can read a lot of things on the internet, though.

I've ridden over 30,000 miles since I installed my cams, and have had no problems at all.

Did I say I really like them?

 
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Old Nov 14, 2015 | 12:19 AM
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great tip crazy
 
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