Help with emulator set up, too many options!!!
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 115
Likes: 4
From: Alberta
Help with emulator set up, too many options!!!
So for the record I have already searched this topic many times and I'm having a hard time getting an actual straight forward answer to how to set these up. I have a 2013 street bob and am going to get emulators very soon and plan to install them myself. I'm going to use the stock springs with them for now. I'm 190 pounds with gear on ride fairly aggressively and the roads where I live are absolute garbage. I just want to the front end to be a bit stiffer with less front end dive when braking and overall just not so mushy. Can someone please help I'm sure someone out there has a good set up for this around my same weight. Can't even find a definitive answer if I have to drill out the holes in the dampening rod itself. Some people said they drilled them out others said they drilled holes in the bodies of the emulators.
Trying to get some simple answers here, let me know what you guys are running including oil weight, amount, and spacer length.
Trying to get some simple answers here, let me know what you guys are running including oil weight, amount, and spacer length.
Road Captain
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 618
Likes: 100
From: MA
I haven't done a Harley with these but if the SV650 is similar which is should be close because they are both damper rod forks then we would weld the bleed hole closed. Its the small pin like hole near the top of the damper rob and we would drill out the 4 holes near the bottom of the rod.
They should come with instructions to tell you what to do.
They should come with instructions to tell you what to do.
Road Captain
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 656
Likes: 59
From: MT. Olympus
So for the record I have already searched this topic many times and I'm having a hard time getting an actual straight forward answer to how to set these up. I have a 2013 street bob and am going to get emulators very soon and plan to install them myself. I'm going to use the stock springs with them for now. I'm 190 pounds with gear on ride fairly aggressively and the roads where I live are absolute garbage. I just want to the front end to be a bit stiffer with less front end dive when braking and overall just not so mushy. Can someone please help I'm sure someone out there has a good set up for this around my same weight. Can't even find a definitive answer if I have to drill out the holes in the dampening rod itself. Some people said they drilled them out others said they drilled holes in the bodies of the emulators.
Trying to get some simple answers here, let me know what you guys are running including oil weight, amount, and spacer length.
Trying to get some simple answers here, let me know what you guys are running including oil weight, amount, and spacer length.
I have spent years roadracing in CCS/AMA events and one thing I have learned is suspensions and setting them up. On my super-bike, yes holes were welded shut and re drilled to meet very specific orifice size but on my super-sport bikes, I left the forks stock and changed to heavy rate fork springs and heavy weight fork oil because it didn't need anything more. The reason the 2 bikes needed two vastly different fork setups is simple. My super-bike ran slicks that were wider and had more contact patch with the pavement which meant that bike could corner at higher speeds and create much higher suspension compression in mid turn. The suspension had to be crazy stiff to be able to control compression and rebound in those conditions. On my super-sport which by the rules had to be basically stock and run street legal tires, The suspension didn't need to be as stiff because the grip was less on that bike. I did however change the fork oil to 15w (mid-heavy) and install heavier fork springs. Those 2 simple changes made a world of difference in fork dive and compression/rebound damping leading to a bike that was much happier to hit mid corner bumps or a bumpy braking area.
People often underestimate how much a difference something simple like changing fork oil weight can have but its worth a try and if you aren't happy with it then it was a easy and inexpensive trial and you would only be out a couple bucks.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 115
Likes: 4
From: Alberta
Since you have searched this already, Im sure you have already come across the idea of simply changing to a heavier fork oil and maybe heavier springs as well but bear with me on this for a second.
I have spent years roadracing in CCS/AMA events and one thing I have learned is suspensions and setting them up. On my super-bike, yes holes were welded shut and re drilled to meet very specific orifice size but on my super-sport bikes, I left the forks stock and changed to heavy rate fork springs and heavy weight fork oil because it didn't need anything more. The reason the 2 bikes needed two vastly different fork setups is simple. My super-bike ran slicks that were wider and had more contact patch with the pavement which meant that bike could corner at higher speeds and create much higher suspension compression in mid turn. The suspension had to be crazy stiff to be able to control compression and rebound in those conditions. On my super-sport which by the rules had to be basically stock and run street legal tires, The suspension didn't need to be as stiff because the grip was less on that bike. I did however change the fork oil to 15w (mid-heavy) and install heavier fork springs. Those 2 simple changes made a world of difference in fork dive and compression/rebound damping leading to a bike that was much happier to hit mid corner bumps or a bumpy braking area.
People often underestimate how much a difference something simple like changing fork oil weight can have but its worth a try and if you aren't happy with it then it was a easy and inexpensive trial and you would only be out a couple bucks.
I have spent years roadracing in CCS/AMA events and one thing I have learned is suspensions and setting them up. On my super-bike, yes holes were welded shut and re drilled to meet very specific orifice size but on my super-sport bikes, I left the forks stock and changed to heavy rate fork springs and heavy weight fork oil because it didn't need anything more. The reason the 2 bikes needed two vastly different fork setups is simple. My super-bike ran slicks that were wider and had more contact patch with the pavement which meant that bike could corner at higher speeds and create much higher suspension compression in mid turn. The suspension had to be crazy stiff to be able to control compression and rebound in those conditions. On my super-sport which by the rules had to be basically stock and run street legal tires, The suspension didn't need to be as stiff because the grip was less on that bike. I did however change the fork oil to 15w (mid-heavy) and install heavier fork springs. Those 2 simple changes made a world of difference in fork dive and compression/rebound damping leading to a bike that was much happier to hit mid corner bumps or a bumpy braking area.
People often underestimate how much a difference something simple like changing fork oil weight can have but its worth a try and if you aren't happy with it then it was a easy and inexpensive trial and you would only be out a couple bucks.
Road Master
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,181
Likes: 98
From: north of the south pole
Just follow the directions and drill the dampening rod. Get some preload adjusters, or try a PVC coupling cut down for spacers on top of your stock springs.
Switch to a 10W or 15w fork oil. Use what you like best. Change one thing at a time so you know what works.
Switch to a 10W or 15w fork oil. Use what you like best. Change one thing at a time so you know what works.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 3,685
Likes: 4,294
From: Northeast, NJ
I have a Switchback and did the springs and Emulators a couple of summers ago. I did drill the dampers and went to a 15wt oil. Highly recommend using a press vs. a handheld drill. The Switchback uses 41mm forks, not 49mm like all the other Dynas, and there are no options for preload adjustable fork caps.
I've toyed with playing the settings on the Emulators themselves, but the hassle of totally tearing down the forks to get to the Emulators everytime I want to make an adjustment is a PITA.
I think the springs and fork oil change made the biggest difference. Brake dive is now very minimal and the front tracks much better than stock. Not sure if others have noticed this, but my overall fork length shrunk by about 1/2" with the new setup. I may go back in and add lengthened spacers to see what happens. Had to drop the forks in the triple trees to make up the difference in length. Turn in on the bike became a little too fast.
I've toyed with playing the settings on the Emulators themselves, but the hassle of totally tearing down the forks to get to the Emulators everytime I want to make an adjustment is a PITA.
I think the springs and fork oil change made the biggest difference. Brake dive is now very minimal and the front tracks much better than stock. Not sure if others have noticed this, but my overall fork length shrunk by about 1/2" with the new setup. I may go back in and add lengthened spacers to see what happens. Had to drop the forks in the triple trees to make up the difference in length. Turn in on the bike became a little too fast.
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Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 115
Likes: 4
From: Alberta
I have a Switchback and did the springs and Emulators a couple of summers ago. I did drill the dampers and went to a 15wt oil. Highly recommend using a press vs. a handheld drill. The Switchback uses 41mm forks, not 49mm like all the other Dynas, and there are no options for preload adjustable fork caps.
I've toyed with playing the settings on the Emulators themselves, but the hassle of totally tearing down the forks to get to the Emulators everytime I want to make an adjustment is a PITA.
I think the springs and fork oil change made the biggest difference. Brake dive is now very minimal and the front tracks much better than stock. Not sure if others have noticed this, but my overall fork length shrunk by about 1/2" with the new setup. I may go back in and add lengthened spacers to see what happens. Had to drop the forks in the triple trees to make up the difference in length. Turn in on the bike became a little too fast.
I've toyed with playing the settings on the Emulators themselves, but the hassle of totally tearing down the forks to get to the Emulators everytime I want to make an adjustment is a PITA.
I think the springs and fork oil change made the biggest difference. Brake dive is now very minimal and the front tracks much better than stock. Not sure if others have noticed this, but my overall fork length shrunk by about 1/2" with the new setup. I may go back in and add lengthened spacers to see what happens. Had to drop the forks in the triple trees to make up the difference in length. Turn in on the bike became a little too fast.
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Tourer
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 461
Likes: 12
From: Ca
If you ride hard then go with the dual rate performance springs, emulators, and 15w. That what I did and it was well worth it for me and how I ride. If you ride at the normal speed, just start with the 15w. Oil weight and fresh oil, make a noticable difference that may be enough to satisfy most. Did this on a friend's 09' street bob and it made a huge improvement.
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 115
Likes: 4
From: Alberta
If you ride hard then go with the dual rate performance springs, emulators, and 15w. That what I did and it was well worth it for me and how I ride. If you ride at the normal speed, just start with the 15w. Oil weight and fresh oil, make a noticable difference that may be enough to satisfy most. Did this on a friend's 09' street bob and it made a huge improvement.