Feedback on Attitude Adjuster
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 118
Likes: 24
From: virginia
Feedback on Attitude Adjuster
Just finished the Baker install with a couple surprising things. First is that some here were correct in that the two main parts will fit under the chain w/o removal of the comp. I did want to look for lack of lube or rust, and add some grease, but from external, all looks good. Note that the early comps were lubed externally with a grease gun??? My chain was dog tight...too much so for my experience with chains. Also with about 11k on the clock the nylon wear block was like new....hope this is also true when I check the cam chain tensioners later. In this harsh environment, I am using Amsoil....see their ASTM tests with comparos to others. As a note, when I was checking the comp bolt for torque, I notice that the spring will wind up. I wonder whether anyone has thought to develop a method to check spring tension using torque. This because some comp failures are due to spring failures? With the aluminum sprocket block tool in place, when you torque the bolt, the spring collapses and forces the shaft extension and crank to move, sprocket stays still. Should be a correlation between torque and movement.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 4,440
Likes: 148
From: Northwest
If you're still using the old style oem comp, it's a weak pos.
As a side note, that over tight primary... can cause fractures in the clutch hub splines, on the inside next to the IPB... a larger than normal amount of bikes have those splines fractured about 3/8 to 1/2 from the outside in.
Found that on mine last year when replacing my alternator... installed a new hub, and a Hayden tensioner... got that stock ratcheting pos out of there.
As a side note, that over tight primary... can cause fractures in the clutch hub splines, on the inside next to the IPB... a larger than normal amount of bikes have those splines fractured about 3/8 to 1/2 from the outside in.
Found that on mine last year when replacing my alternator... installed a new hub, and a Hayden tensioner... got that stock ratcheting pos out of there.
Thread Starter
|
Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 118
Likes: 24
From: virginia
Good points Archer....so far, no metal on the magnet so I am hoping to spot any comp problems that may begin before they get bad. Noise might begin ahead of metal shredding, but will try to stay ahead of that one, thanks.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 4,440
Likes: 148
From: Northwest
My stock comp went bad, you could hear it when I started the bike... it would go the end of travel and smack the stops.. sounded like someone with a small ball peen hammer smacking the primary case every time I started it... 
... I installed the SE comp.. no issues..
... I installed the SE comp.. no issues..
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 3,791
Likes: 57
From: N Texas
If you're still using the old style oem comp, it's a weak pos.
As a side note, that over tight primary... can cause fractures in the clutch hub splines, on the inside next to the IPB... a larger than normal amount of bikes have those splines fractured about 3/8 to 1/2 from the outside in.
Found that on mine last year when replacing my alternator... installed a new hub, and a Hayden tensioner... got that stock ratcheting pos out of there.
As a side note, that over tight primary... can cause fractures in the clutch hub splines, on the inside next to the IPB... a larger than normal amount of bikes have those splines fractured about 3/8 to 1/2 from the outside in.
Found that on mine last year when replacing my alternator... installed a new hub, and a Hayden tensioner... got that stock ratcheting pos out of there.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MrSunset
Primary/Transmission/Driveline/Clutch
11
Sep 26, 2012 08:57 PM
