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Help !! I've got a stripped torx bolt I can't get out. It's the one underneath where the front right forward mounted footpeg bolts on that holds the break lever to the pivot shaft. Won't budge. Tried and easy out, but can't seem to drill deep enough into it. Any ideas ?
At this point, since you can't drill it out, you have two options. One is to use a drill bit the same size as the bolt threads to see if you can drill the head off. Second and I think I'd try this first, is to put a metal rod through the mount holes and try smacking it with a big hammer in a counterclockwise direction.
Just thought of a third option. Try to wedge a large allen wrench in what's left of the torx hole. You'd have to pound it in with a hammer to get it really stuck in there. Then if you have an air impact use that on the allen. Some heat added to the area around the threads would help but will probably ruin the paint and you don't want that.
Take a screwdriver and hold it anywhere on the face part that is around the torx hole. tilt the screwdriver just a teeny bit and hit it with a hammer (so that the bolt starts to spin counter-clockwise).
I would try an alan head socket next size up from stripped hole and pound that SOB in using a 6" extension BUT before you try my idea or any of the above measures HEAT THAT BOLT..
that white thread lock used from the factory is like freaking steel and probably why its stripped out on you
At this point, since you can't drill it out, you have two options. One is to use a drill bit the same size as the bolt threads to see if you can drill the head off. Second and I think I'd try this first, is to put a metal rod through the mount holes and try smacking it with a big hammer in a counterclockwise direction.
I don't think I can do the second option, as the piece with the mount holes doesn't rotate. It's held stationary with the pivot shaft which is beveled. Hence the bolt that is stripped to hold it in place.
I needed heat to break the thread locker for those bolts on my bike recently.
Realizing they're recessed, but I've have good success welding and old bit into the bolt head. Just a couple tacks between the head and the bit.
Heat the threads this time. You can pull the entire bracket where it attaches to the frame (lower and further inboard) to do the welding on a bench or something.
Use a smaller easy out. Drill all the way into the threaded portion of the fastener. Use a decent drill. Carbide or cobalt. Heat up the mating part to at least 400. Pound in the extractor. Twist that bitch loose.
I restore a lot of old cars and have to deal with this on a daily basis. You are to the "drill it out" point. It takes a very good carbide bit, not the cheapo high speed steel variety.
While you are at the hardware getting a good bit, check out the square shaped removal tools. You get the size that will hammer into the stripped torx hole and you turn it counterclockwise...it locks in and hopefully removes the bolt. I personally don't like to use them, as if the removal tool breaks off, you are now up $hit creek. You cannot drill out a case hardened tool. And having "been there done that" many times, I prefer to skip ahead to the drill it out step. It's not that big a deal...nothing to be afraid of.
And, for next time...if you are turning the torx bit and you see it start to deform, stop! Once it deforms it will buggar the hole, leaving what you have. Add heat and try it again with a fresh bit. If you buy Craftsman or Snap on you take the bent bit back for a free replacement. I will likely bankrupt Sears with their lifetime warranty for the bites I have replaced.
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