Dyna Glide Models Super Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
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Old Oct 6, 2016 | 10:44 PM
  #471  
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Best advice I read before trying it myself was to use lube and keep the bead down in the drop center of the rim. Don't try to stretch or strong-arm the bead. My Cobras were really stiff and it was really hard to squish them enough to keep the bead down in the drop center. I used my knee. There are probably better techniques. A changing stand would also be really helpful, but I just used a plywood floor.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2016 | 09:55 AM
  #472  
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Check the stamping on the bearing good chance the are NSK and not Timken.

Nice man I wish I could order toys like you do..
 
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Old Oct 7, 2016 | 10:18 AM
  #473  
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Originally Posted by natedog_37
Check the stamping on the bearing good chance the are NSK and not Timken.

Nice man I wish I could order toys like you do..
believe it or not. the bike is still paying for the work, well outside of the wheels i bought. everything that came off it is getting sold and the insurance from the old bike vs the cost of the new bike are working in my favor. the pot of funds for this project is dwindling though.

the bearings read "fafnir"-"205pp"-"usa-23" not sure what any of that means
 

Last edited by cvaria; Oct 7, 2016 at 10:44 AM.
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Old Oct 7, 2016 | 10:23 AM
  #474  
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first set is done.




issue.. how do i keep set two from trashing my primary cover?... hmmm?




 

Last edited by cvaria; Oct 7, 2016 at 10:27 AM.
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Old Oct 7, 2016 | 10:31 AM
  #475  
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Those look real nice! They don't stick out too far?

Can you lock them down so they don't rotate? If so, the adapters should hold them out from the primary/pipes.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2016 | 10:33 AM
  #476  
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Originally Posted by cvaria
believe it or not. the bike is still paying for the work, well outside of the wheels i bought. everything that came off i getting sold and the insurance from the old bike vs the cost of the new bike are working in my favor. the pot of funds for this project is dwindling though.

the bearings read "fafnir"-"205pp"-"usa-23" not sure what any of that means
Cool beans man.

I will have to look If I am correct they don't have a plant in the us. They buy a ton from NSK "I use to work there" and then put them in there box's..
 
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Old Oct 7, 2016 | 10:41 AM
  #477  
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Originally Posted by cggorman
Those look real nice! They don't stick out too far?

Can you lock them down so they don't rotate? If so, the adapters should hold them out from the primary/pipes.

they do stick out about an inch more. will need to space the shifter and brake pedal.


not sure about lock them. the bmx heads would probably know.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2016 | 12:07 PM
  #478  
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Cvaria, I don't know if this will fit in with the look you're going for but you could consider an extended shift peg and extended brake pedal pad.

The Kuryakyn #8021 longhorn shift peg and the #8044 longhorn brake pedal pad are what's on my Wide Glide using the ISO pegs which are longer than the OEM pegs.

I'll bounce in to my Photobucket and see if I can find any good images of the extended shift peg and brake pedal pad...

Your new approach to pegs look great but you're going to bury those things very easily in to the asphalt unless you use a more aggressive body position to keep the bike as upright as possible


Edit: I don't know if the extended shift peg and brake pad will give you enough but they just might A new image and a very old one...

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Last edited by TinCupChalice; Oct 7, 2016 at 12:18 PM.
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Old Oct 7, 2016 | 12:59 PM
  #479  
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Originally Posted by TinCupChalice
being an awesome person
i'm going to take it out in a while to see how bad it is, then go from there. the brake pedal was already an issue so we'll what the story is.
 
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Old Oct 7, 2016 | 01:56 PM
  #480  
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If I remember from my BMX days there should be a plastic cap in the center of the pedal that has a nut or bolt head you can tighten down to keep them from free spinning.
 
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