Convert to Dual front dics with ABS
Road Master
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 755
Likes: 223
From: Murrieta Ca.
I'm slowly collecting parts for dual disk upgrade. I have single Tokico, and it was great improvement, but it seems that braking from 90+ mph is still a sketch. So will add another one 
Got fork sliders from fat bob - don't see where machining will be needed. Based on what I read it was only fender fitting differently
Brake line - you can actually run second line from master using dual line banjo bolt - did it on sportster and it works awesome, some are saying better than splitter
Another tokiko adapter from SM and caliper off ebay
11/16 master from there as well
just did forks rebuild with cartridges - so only seals
I'll need is to swap wheel - my switchblade takes only one disk
Thinking between these two
Got fork sliders from fat bob - don't see where machining will be needed. Based on what I read it was only fender fitting differently
Brake line - you can actually run second line from master using dual line banjo bolt - did it on sportster and it works awesome, some are saying better than splitter
Another tokiko adapter from SM and caliper off ebay
11/16 master from there as well
just did forks rebuild with cartridges - so only seals
I'll need is to swap wheel - my switchblade takes only one disk
Thinking between these two
Research is your friend... see post #46 in this thread: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...eet-bob-5.html
Howdy, I have just tried to complete a fatbob dual disc conversion to my 2011 street bob by buying a set of fatbob sliders which I fitted successfully then an 11/16 bore m/cylinder which was successful also I bought the r/hand side caliper off a fatbob as well as a genuine disc from a street bob but when I put the streetbob front wheel on and go to mount the calipers the right one mounts to the fork but is tight and the original left caliper doesn't fit to the slider when fitting it over the disc? Should I have gotten other spacers or another axle? Cheers
Just trying to give you a heads up: Mike
Club Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 11,175
Likes: 2,483
From: Nor Cal
I'm slowly collecting parts for dual disk upgrade. I have single Tokico, and it was great improvement, but it seems that braking from 90+ mph is still a sketch. So will add another one
Got fork sliders from fat bob - don't see where machining will be needed. Based on what I read it was only fender fitting differently
Got fork sliders from fat bob - don't see where machining will be needed. Based on what I read it was only fender fitting differently
Rodger has to make the same decision. Since he also won't be able get a matching dual disc front for his Switchblade rear wheel. Will he use a Low Rider wheel (like you show), which is close in design to the rear, but not a match or get 2 new wheels?
...
This is pretty much the standard condition when you use Fat Bob legs with mid glide trees. If your basing your build using the the article in Hot Bike: http://www.hotbikeweb.com/tech/doubl...ersion?image=0 Somehow they forgot mention the calipers were machined, its the only way this combination of parts works.
Just trying to give you a heads up: Mike
This is pretty much the standard condition when you use Fat Bob legs with mid glide trees. If your basing your build using the the article in Hot Bike: http://www.hotbikeweb.com/tech/doubl...ersion?image=0 Somehow they forgot mention the calipers were machined, its the only way this combination of parts works.
Just trying to give you a heads up: Mike
Bad HotBike...Bad
huge fan of the roadster wheels. You'll be limited on rear tire size though.
As far as the 11/16 M/C, I've had to dremel them to fit my wide glides. Nothing major. Just the little fork tab area the connect to the switch housing is too narrow and needs to be widened on the right side. Take a few seconds with the dremel. I didn't measure the difference either time i did it, sorry. the m/c's i used came from a 2001 road glide and a 2011 fat bob.
As far as the 11/16 M/C, I've had to dremel them to fit my wide glides. Nothing major. Just the little fork tab area the connect to the switch housing is too narrow and needs to be widened on the right side. Take a few seconds with the dremel. I didn't measure the difference either time i did it, sorry. the m/c's i used came from a 2001 road glide and a 2011 fat bob.
Last edited by cvaria; Sep 29, 2016 at 11:16 AM. Reason: more info
Road Master
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 865
Likes: 67
From: Los Angeles,ca
Thanks Mike. I was reading several threads, and that's first time I see this problem mentioned. I think it's a bit different for my set up, because of SM adapter and radial caliper. It's good info though and something to consider, thanks for heads up!
Hi Izhd,
Research is your friend... see post #46 in this thread: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...eet-bob-5.html
This is pretty much the standard condition when you use Fat Bob legs with mid glide trees. If your basing your build using the the article in Hot Bike: http://www.hotbikeweb.com/tech/doubl...ersion?image=0 Somehow they forgot mention the calipers were machined, its the only way this combination of parts works.
Just trying to give you a heads up: Mike
Research is your friend... see post #46 in this thread: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...eet-bob-5.html
This is pretty much the standard condition when you use Fat Bob legs with mid glide trees. If your basing your build using the the article in Hot Bike: http://www.hotbikeweb.com/tech/doubl...ersion?image=0 Somehow they forgot mention the calipers were machined, its the only way this combination of parts works.
Just trying to give you a heads up: Mike
Road Master
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 865
Likes: 67
From: Los Angeles,ca
Right. It will probably look not that great if I leave switchblade on the back though. So maybe just lowrider powdercoated black - like Monster did in his setup.
huge fan of the roadster wheels. You'll be limited on rear tire size though.
As far as the 11/16 M/C, I've had to dremel them to fit my wide glides. Nothing major. Just the little fork tab area the connect to the switch housing is too narrow and needs to be widened on the right side. Take a few seconds with the dremel. I did measure the difference either time i did it, sorry. the m/c's i used came from a 2001 road glide and a 2011 fat bob.
As far as the 11/16 M/C, I've had to dremel them to fit my wide glides. Nothing major. Just the little fork tab area the connect to the switch housing is too narrow and needs to be widened on the right side. Take a few seconds with the dremel. I did measure the difference either time i did it, sorry. the m/c's i used came from a 2001 road glide and a 2011 fat bob.
Thread Starter
|
Road Captain
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 556
Likes: 12
Conversion to duals with abs
The Left Slider on the Fat Bob (and FXDWG) have different caliper mounting boss locations (horizontally) than your mid-glide Left Slider...approx .150" more to the inside.
Double line from the Master won't work for the OP having ABS...although theoretically a person could probably double banjo the existing Left Caliper and run a jumper hose over to the New Right Cal. Probably a moot point though since HD has off the shelf parts to make this swap pretty routine.
Rodger has to make the same decision. Since he also won't be able get a matching dual disc front for his Switchblade rear wheel. Will he use a Low Rider wheel (like you show), which is close in design to the rear, but not a match or get 2 new wheels?
I have also mentioned on this forum regarding that omission in their article along with not addressing the the different fender mounting dimensions
Bad HotBike...Bad
Double line from the Master won't work for the OP having ABS...although theoretically a person could probably double banjo the existing Left Caliper and run a jumper hose over to the New Right Cal. Probably a moot point though since HD has off the shelf parts to make this swap pretty routine.
Rodger has to make the same decision. Since he also won't be able get a matching dual disc front for his Switchblade rear wheel. Will he use a Low Rider wheel (like you show), which is close in design to the rear, but not a match or get 2 new wheels?
I have also mentioned on this forum regarding that omission in their article along with not addressing the the different fender mounting dimensions
Bad HotBike...Bad
Thanks for the thoughts. Low rider will work as far as I am concerned. I just want duals( my bike is already abs single ) and if not a match will not bother me. I wish I had bought a LR but at the time of my purchase-2013, they had not come out. I have copied all the contructive posts to give to the shop. Hoping to make his job easier. At present I plan to buy my parts from Sturdyke unless the shop wants to use their own sources. Is there anyone out there that has done the conversion with ABS?
Roger
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 13,402
Likes: 941
From: Illinois
I have a 13 Street Bob with a 120R. I have never found it to have weak front brakes. Any HD that I have (22) with single rotors will lock the front brake with two fingers.
The limiting factor in braking is the front tire not the number of discs. Of course it takes less pressure to lock the front with dual discs and they will not heat up as fast under hard use like on a track. But they can not and will not stop the bike any faster than a single disc-period.
A well trained person can generate 0.9 G's of deceleration on any H-D cruiser with either system. There is a school in Calif. that does that training. The average student in that course starts out with 0.4 G's. Then at the end can do 0.9 G's.
I find it easier to modulate a single disc just due to the fact that it takes more pressure to achieve the force needed.
The limiting factor in braking is the front tire not the number of discs. Of course it takes less pressure to lock the front with dual discs and they will not heat up as fast under hard use like on a track. But they can not and will not stop the bike any faster than a single disc-period.
A well trained person can generate 0.9 G's of deceleration on any H-D cruiser with either system. There is a school in Calif. that does that training. The average student in that course starts out with 0.4 G's. Then at the end can do 0.9 G's.
I find it easier to modulate a single disc just due to the fact that it takes more pressure to achieve the force needed.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 2,132
Likes: 773
From: Earth
I have a 13 Street Bob with a 120R. I have never found it to have weak front brakes. Any HD that I have (22) with single rotors will lock the front brake with two fingers.
The limiting factor in braking is the front tire not the number of discs. Of course it takes less pressure to lock the front with dual discs and they will not heat up as fast under hard use like on a track. But they can not and will not stop the bike any faster than a single disc-period.
The limiting factor in braking is the front tire not the number of discs. Of course it takes less pressure to lock the front with dual discs and they will not heat up as fast under hard use like on a track. But they can not and will not stop the bike any faster than a single disc-period.
A properly setup bike with high quality dual discs and good suspension will stop WORLDS better than the average Harley. Anyone who's ever spent a fair amount of time on sport or performance bikes is generally appalled the first time they jump on a Harley and try to stop, and rightly so.
The whole Harley suspension/brake setup on most bikes is pure garbage. A proper setup doesn't just lock the front wheel faster, as some seem to believe. It provides the rider with way more feedback of what's actually happening between the bike and the road.
There's a reason pretty much every other motorcycle on the road has dual brakes (often Brembos), and a quality suspension. My old Dyna was like a Model T Ford compared to my Ducati, which can stop in an amazingly short distance from high speeds. If I tried that on my Dyna I would have been in a ditch for sure.
Most of us really enjoy swapping parts around and doing things to personalize a bike and make it into something special. But we should not be forced into replacing whole systems of the bike because they're unsafe and just generally rubbish. Harley doesn't do anything about it because they don't have to. They have a loyal customer base who willingly pays full price for a badly designed bike, then drops thousands more just making the bike ridable. In fact, they're counting on it.
http://www.krausmotorco.com/collecti...cts/nicks-dyna
Originally Posted by Kraus Custom Motorcycles
"The bike isn’t flashy or colorful but it looks clean and simple. Dynamoto has a supermoto style to it; this one would appeal to the Harley riders that want more. So thinking along the lines of minimalism and styling to the point, we stripped a stock 2000 FXDX down to the frame and motor. We threw out all the tins, the stock front end, bars and controls, wheels, brakes… all the crap that sucked. Basically everything except the frame motor and trany."
Last edited by DM426; Oct 10, 2016 at 02:12 PM.
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Joe Kucinski
Road Master
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 865
Likes: 67
From: Los Angeles,ca
Very true. Swapping HD for Tokico was huge improvement, it's like comparing old dodge brakes to BMW - both eventually stop, but one is spongy ad unresponsive, another is crisp and allows to modulate and better control. Having said that, I also have HD 1200S with dual disks - after putting on Magnum SS lines and fresh fluid - it stops better than Dyna ever did with HD or even Tokico. Of course it is lighter, but Iron I had was pretty much the same weight with single set up - didn't stop that well either.
I beg to differ.
A properly setup bike with high quality dual discs and good suspension will stop WORLDS better than the average Harley. Anyone who's ever spent a fair amount of time on sport or performance bikes is generally appalled the first time they jump on a Harley and try to stop, and rightly so.
The whole Harley suspension/brake setup on most bikes is pure garbage. A proper setup doesn't just lock the front wheel faster, as some seem to believe. It provides the rider with way more feedback of what's actually happening between the bike and the road.
There's a reason pretty much every other motorcycle on the road has dual brakes (often Brembos), and a quality suspension. My old Dyna was like a Model T Ford compared to my Ducati, which can stop in an amazingly short distance from high speeds. If I tried that on my Dyna I would have been in a ditch for sure.
Most of us really enjoy swapping parts around and doing things to personalize a bike and make it into something special. But we should not be forced into replacing whole systems of the bike because they're unsafe and just generally rubbish. Harley doesn't do anything about it because they don't have to. They have a loyal customer base who willingly pays full price for a badly designed bike, then drops thousands more just making the bike ridable. In fact, they're counting on it.
http://www.krausmotorco.com/collecti...cts/nicks-dyna
Pretty much.
A properly setup bike with high quality dual discs and good suspension will stop WORLDS better than the average Harley. Anyone who's ever spent a fair amount of time on sport or performance bikes is generally appalled the first time they jump on a Harley and try to stop, and rightly so.
The whole Harley suspension/brake setup on most bikes is pure garbage. A proper setup doesn't just lock the front wheel faster, as some seem to believe. It provides the rider with way more feedback of what's actually happening between the bike and the road.
There's a reason pretty much every other motorcycle on the road has dual brakes (often Brembos), and a quality suspension. My old Dyna was like a Model T Ford compared to my Ducati, which can stop in an amazingly short distance from high speeds. If I tried that on my Dyna I would have been in a ditch for sure.
Most of us really enjoy swapping parts around and doing things to personalize a bike and make it into something special. But we should not be forced into replacing whole systems of the bike because they're unsafe and just generally rubbish. Harley doesn't do anything about it because they don't have to. They have a loyal customer base who willingly pays full price for a badly designed bike, then drops thousands more just making the bike ridable. In fact, they're counting on it.
http://www.krausmotorco.com/collecti...cts/nicks-dyna
Pretty much.
Thread Starter
|
Road Captain
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 556
Likes: 12
Well I have been complaining that without dual front rotors my 2013 Bob has very poor braking. Harley should be ashamed.
I finally found a local shop that claims it can convert to dual abs. A lot cheaper than buying a new Low Rider and setting it up. I love my Bob, and have it set up the way I want. It took me nearly 2 years of looking and installing. Now for the last step. Essentially I am converting to a LR, but at the time I purchased, they did not have the current model. The conversion will include a new wheel, disc,caliper, brake cylinder and possibly new fork. I am sure there is more.
I will be taking the bike into the shop in October. They seem very competent and knowledgable. But I still worry and hope they put their actions where their mouth is.
Will post the dealers name and results if it comes out well.
I would appreciate any thoughts and advise on the conversion.
Roger
I finally found a local shop that claims it can convert to dual abs. A lot cheaper than buying a new Low Rider and setting it up. I love my Bob, and have it set up the way I want. It took me nearly 2 years of looking and installing. Now for the last step. Essentially I am converting to a LR, but at the time I purchased, they did not have the current model. The conversion will include a new wheel, disc,caliper, brake cylinder and possibly new fork. I am sure there is more.
I will be taking the bike into the shop in October. They seem very competent and knowledgable. But I still worry and hope they put their actions where their mouth is.
Will post the dealers name and results if it comes out well.
I would appreciate any thoughts and advise on the conversion.
Roger
Roger