While trying to install a bung king front crash bar (to replace the Lindbar I currently have) I found I can't mount the voltage regulator the way bung King wants you to - to a tab on the bar itself. Unfortunately it interferes with my Ultracool oil cooler. Long story short, ideally I'd like to raise the regulator about 2" to make everything fit.

Problem seems to be the cables aren't long enough to move the reg too far.

Not the end of the world, I can live with the Lindbar, just the bung King is a much more low profile design and I'd like to use it.

And as is my usual MO, of course I didn't take a single damn photo...

 

Splice in some longer wires. No biggie.

 

That easy? I'm so damn paranoid about canbus warnings etc. I didn't think this may not be affected... Interesting.

 

Do it right and it won't be an issue. You only need a couple inches, right? The change in resistance / voltage will be miniscule if you use the correct (same as existing (or larger)) gauge wire and make electrically solid splices. I would solder and double heat shrink, but weatherproof crimp connectors could probably be substituted. Just not as clean.

You can get small quantities of silicone jacketed wire thru eBay. I never have any luck getting good (flexible, fine stranded) wire locally. You may have better suppliers.

 

Only problem is if I do cut and splice, I figure my warranty on anything electrical on the bike is bye-bye... I think I'm going to see if I can find the connectors and fab extension cables. This way if something fries I can always put everything back the way it was...

 

Good point. I never even thought about that. Warranty is a luxury I've never had. I buy everything well used.

 

Still good idea though. Thanks.

 

Is the connector from the regulator/rectifier to stator a connector that would be commercially available? If so make a jumper of sufficient length and put a female end on and a male end.

 

Service manual has them as 2 and 3 position "dekko" connectors, but damned if I can find any on Google. Keeping looking

 

I tried to figure this out when I was concerned about the true track interfering with the bungking crash bar (True track was fine with the crash bar by the way). One idea I had was to use a joining bracket like this from the stock mounting point: https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Cor...ending+bracket

This raises the the regulator up enough to clear the crash bar. If you go up to high you might need to use a couple of washers as spacers to clear the frame.