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Low Rider S riser

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Old Mar 13, 2017 | 07:42 AM
  #11  
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Nickd2689
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From: Northstreet, michigan
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Originally Posted by WH1_T-type
That's right I remember now! Yeah they are. That's why I'm just gonna pay the local mechanic to find it! Lol
lol it's ok it took me a while before I started remembering the members who post frequently. I'll never forget anyone who knows what a wh1 is lol.

Yea I'm surprised the 3inch spacers fit. I built 2.5 inch spacers and just barely got em in. A lot more comfortable though. I'm used to apes do the stock lrs bars are just too low.
 
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Old Mar 15, 2017 | 03:56 AM
  #12  
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==ShaDoW==
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I was told you can go to ten without changing cables I hope so I have 10 inch risers on the way from Big Al's with the kickback in black, so time will tell, will post up when they are on.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2017 | 06:14 AM
  #13  
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K0311
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Originally Posted by rlmharley
I've got the 3 in on mine and they work. Clutch cable is maxed.

With the clutch maxed. Are you still able to turn your handlebars all the way to the left and right? Have you had any problems with them since you installed them? I'm wanting the DK 3 inch but looking for more information in case I need to drop to the DK 2 inch just for all the cables.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2017 | 04:47 PM
  #14  
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brasher
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just put DK 2 inches on last night, I think 3 inch would work fine if you re-jigged the routing of the Clutch cable.


At 2 inches don't have to do a thing, just undo bolts, slip spacers in and replace with the extended included bolts.


The bushings with the added rise are not the best, at full lock there is a small amount of movement. I don't think it will make a difference when riding at all.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2017 | 04:58 PM
  #15  
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TinCupChalice
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Originally Posted by brasher
just put DK 2 inches on last night, I think 3 inch would work fine if you re-jigged the routing of the Clutch cable.


At 2 inches don't have to do a thing, just undo bolts, slip spacers in and replace with the extended included bolts.


The bushings with the added rise are not the best, at full lock there is a small amount of movement. I don't think it will make a difference when riding at all.

You will notice it; those OEM rubber bushings are trash. With taller bars you've increased the leverage on those bushings, and doing full lock slow speed motor officer exercises or aggressive counter-steering that flex in the bars is not at all wanted.

I've used solid bushings for ages; there's not enough added vibration to even be concerned about, but the bars are solidly mounted the bike, not floating and flexing with every rider input.

Poly or solids; I've been using the LA Choppers solids...
 
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Old Jul 11, 2017 | 06:08 PM
  #16  
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brasher
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Thanks, haven't taken a test ride yet but tomorrow will tell if it's an issue or not.


I ride this bike like it owes me money
 
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Old Jul 12, 2017 | 05:28 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by brasher
Thanks, haven't taken a test ride yet but tomorrow will tell if it's an issue or not.


I ride this bike like it owes me money
you'll be ordering the solids. That bar bounce is no good.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2017 | 11:51 PM
  #18  
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brasher
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Originally Posted by cvaria
you'll be ordering the solids. That bar bounce is no good.
Well verdict is in, was surprisingly good. Only time I detected a hint of movement was hitting a speedhump double the speed I should have

Worthwhile investment, although I'll be going to 12 inch San Diego bars when I get a bit of $$$ together.

With another 4 inches of rise solid bushing will be a must.
 
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