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Satans Dyna Fxrt Build

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Old Jul 1, 2017 | 02:17 PM
  #111  
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Did I skip over a post? What was wrong with the BBC fairing and did you go with another brand? I was looking at theirs and the price tag is daunting but it supposedly fits right on to my fxdf
 
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Old Jul 11, 2017 | 02:45 PM
  #112  
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Originally Posted by Jpatterson317
Did I skip over a post? What was wrong with the BBC fairing and did you go with another brand? I was looking at theirs and the price tag is daunting but it supposedly fits right on to my fxdf
I'm waiting on my refund till I say anything about the products I was sent. I have pictures and videos of it all. And yea it's been about a month and still no refund after calling for weeks. Hopefully today is the day. If not I'll be filing a claim. I was going to go with deviant fab because they have been sending me pictures and videos of their kit assuring me its quality.... which it appears to be. But I may be going a different route with the bike. Suspension, motor mounts, and cams being the main things.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2017 | 08:32 PM
  #113  
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Thanks, yea I decided to just go with Deviant they have better reviews and they explained everything I would need to do over email and were extremely helpful. I contacted BBC and I felt like their customer service was lacking especially with the price they attach to their product. Good luck I hope you get your money back sooner than later.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2017 | 03:06 AM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by Jpatterson317
Thanks, yea I decided to just go with Deviant they have better reviews and they explained everything I would need to do over email and were extremely helpful. I contacted BBC and I felt like their customer service was lacking especially with the price they attach to their product. Good luck I hope you get your money back sooner than later.
You made a good decision not going with Big Bear. I hope your Defab stuff works out !
 
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Old Jul 16, 2017 | 05:20 AM
  #115  
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Finally got my money back from Big Bear. What a lousy experience. I'll post up a review eventually but right now it's the last thing I want to write about.

road my bike to PA with some buddies to really get some mileage in and get the tune dialed.


The bike rips. Kept up with a 103 the whole trip. And we were ****ing tearing through the hills.

2 things I noticed - my headlight was pointed towards the moon, and also it sucks. Number 2 , the suspension is garbage. But we all knew that.

my shocks showed up, and I threw those on immediately.

No instructions, no big deal. Just make sure they don't toe in. Plenty of spacers come with the shocks. Check out that gap, ****ing ugly. 14"

Well. No worries. My bags came in and they hide the gap. Super happy with them. I'm going to make a custom inlay to cover up the screws on the hinge. Other than that they are perfect. They hug the bike super tight and are solid. Hold plenty of beer and ammo too.


here you can see the clearance for the shocks. My hand was holding wires out of the way.

the bags obviously took place of my taillights. So It was time to mount the new lights.

You can see the plate mount I originally bought on the left. Well it won't work on bikes with no center tail light which I should of realized before buying. I had to purchase a new one, seen on the right. It uses the two red led strips on the side as your turn and brake.

Here's a shot showing the bags from the rear. About as slim line as can be. Cost me 4x less than big bear bags. And the mounting hardware actually fit too, unlike big bears which hit the stock shocks. Not to mention big bears bags where ****. But anyways, you can also see the holes I drilled for the plate mount, and also a larger hole using a grommet to run the wires.

I actually had to wire the damn thing 3x. I was sent a faulty converter which failed after a few rides. But it ended up being okay, because each time it just allowed me to do a better job. Luckily since the bike has such a huge fender gap, it's super easy to wire everything without jacking the bike up.


I'm really against electrical tape. It has its place, but most people absolutely ruin hardwork with it. When I worked on aviation wiring harnesses we used string that looked like Dental floss covered in wax. It was used to tie wires together using a special knot, keeping everything nice and organized. Essentially thats what i did here but with electrical tape. Since I knew it was going to be shrouded, I was ok with using it.

As you can see I ran the wire through a braided wrap and soldered the factory wires to the new mount. I use 3m aviation heat shrink. I ran out of black so red is what I used to sort of mate the end of the wrap and the wiring together.


Here you can see how it's wired under the fender. Just like factory basically.

since I was going to mount my front turn signals to the fxrt fairing (which I dont have obviously), I picked up some cheap 49mm fork clamps to mount my turn signals. I think I paid $15 from Amazon. The hardware they came with was the right thread, but I wanted the turn signal housing mounted flush to the fork bracket so I picked up some different bolts.

Here's the lights mounted "flush". Also took 10 minutes to powdercoat my headlight ring.
next step was the wiring the lights

Super happy this worked out. I was able to find the factory connectors, pins, and sockets. If you remember previously I ran the wires through the bars and extended them like 3 feet. This worked out good because I just cut the wires and soldered them directly to the lights. I then used the pins and sockets and got everything wired up like it would be from factory.

throwing this picture up to show how the light is flush with the mount instead of using a spacer. Here the wire is extended and soldered already. Next was to attach the connectors which was tedious but very satisfying once done.

The parts you deal with when using these connectors are very small. This pic shows a weather plug used to "convert" a 4 pin plug to a 3 pin plug. The pins and sockets aren't much bigger.


you can see its shrouded and wired up with the connectors. The wiring coming from the bike was eventually covered aswell. Just testing and making sure everything was working properly. That's the last pic I have of the wiring unfortunately. The wiring follows the lower triple tree and runs into the frame with the headlight wiring. Looks super clean.
Here is the bike on a quick ride from tonight.

Showing the lights. Super bright. Definitely need to get rid of the stock headlight though as it doesn't match the LEDs and it is horrible.

also forgot to show i had to figure out a way to stop my bike from nearly falling over on the kickstand. Once I put the rear shocks on the lean angle was sketchy. Luckily bung king makes a kick stand extension.
You can also see my boot is wreaking havoc on my derby cover and shift lever as well as my outer primary. They have a metal heel cap that I guess wasn't a good idea.

gonna have to screw with the front end. Letting go of the bars at speed causes the front end to shake. I'm also going to have to get rid of the fork sliders as I think they are messing with the neck bearing adj. as they are a bit of an interference fit. I should have parts by Wednesday so I'll update if I have the opportunity to mess with the bike.
 

Last edited by LTLOTW; Jul 16, 2017 at 05:39 AM.
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Old Jul 16, 2017 | 06:22 AM
  #116  
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Are those viking bags lamellar bags? What size are they. They look damn good and tempting. I found some leftover Harley dyna hard bags for a pretty good deal but for the price point I might have to just get those.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2017 | 06:35 AM
  #117  
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Originally Posted by CryingJoker
Are those viking bags lamellar bags? What size are they. They look damn good and tempting. I found some leftover Harley dyna hard bags for a pretty good deal but for the price point I might have to just get those.
Yes, they are the large bags. Members here get a discount too. Bit of pain to install. I'd consider them, they are great for the price.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2017 | 09:14 AM
  #118  
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Sounds like your kneck bearings are shot or you have the nut too loose.
 
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Old Jul 21, 2017 | 04:46 PM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by kbiker76
Sounds like your kneck bearings are shot or you have the nut too loose.
I doubt my neck bearings are bad. I think the fork sliders have to go and an adjustment is needed.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2017 | 09:13 PM
  #120  
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Are you talking about the rubber fork boots need to go? The actual fork sliders a kind of important cant really just get rid of them.. I think you may just have the nut under the upper triple tree a hair too loose. Same thing happened to me when I put my front end back together after powdercoat.
 
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