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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
I have a 1997 fxd with the 80” evo and 15k Miles. Wanted to do a reliable build that lets me zip around with my friends twinkies but not break the bank.
I have added an Arlen Ness stage 2 big sucker, v&h big radius, jetted cv carb, Andrews ev27 cam and a port and polish from big boys porting. I had Big Boys mill the heads down .055” and with a .030 head gasket Bean said I should be just under 9.5 to 1 compression.
Cosmetically I have added a mustang solo wide seat, 14” apes with chrome controls, mini floorboards, forward controls, and a chrome swingarm. Progressive 444 shocks and front suspension was ordered today.
Would an aftermarket ignition be worth it? I don’t run to redline ever so about the only benefit would be to advance the timing. Anything else you guys would recommend?
You are almost there. Go with a single fire electronic ignition setup. Dyna 2000 is a great unit. You can set the advance curve and set the red line. It WILL wake up what you have already done.
I put good tires on the bike the first week I owned it. I plan to do a Paughco springer front end so will hold off on the brakes until then. Meanwhile, I do have dual front disc and haven’t had any stopping problems as of now.
What are the engine stabilizers all about? I’m going to look into them of course but you can never beat a first hand explanation. Will they help with vibrations? I did notice after the cam install I get an extra but brief vibration between 200-2200. Definitely not forgiving if I lug the engine.
Stabilizers limit the lateral movement of the swingarm (& engine/trans) to help keep proper alignment of the rear tire at all times. They can add some vibration but most people who use them don't mind the tradeoff for more predictable handling. A popular combination is the Predator front mount and Sputhe Posi-Track rear stabilizer (must call/email to order separate) with a new stock mount. True-Track or Sputhe front and rear with stock mounts is also popular
A fork brace may also be beneficial with that 39mm front end. Also solid riser bushings...
I think the next thing you should do to the bike is take pictures of it, then post them so we can all drool a little.
On on a more serious note, what about brakes and suspension?
The bike is in the shop getting the heads out back on and suspension upgraded. I went with Progressive 444 chrome shocks in the rear and their springs up front. I may upgrade the rear brakes this summer to a chrome 4 piston setup. I’m holding off on the front brakes til I do the springer front end. I may have to change front calipers and don’t want to invest $700 on front brakes for one season. If my bike is done before I leave for Tennessee on Friday I will post pictures. I’m super excited but ready to do a few more things while it is cold.
Last edited by Spartan HD; Jan 3, 2018 at 03:45 PM.
I put good tires on the bike the first week I owned it. I plan to do a Paughco springer front end so will hold off on the brakes until then. Meanwhile, I do have dual front disc and haven’t had any stopping problems as of now.
What are the engine stabilizers all about? I’m going to look into them of course but you can never beat a first hand explanation. Will they help with vibrations? I did notice after the cam install I get an extra but brief vibration between 200-2200. Definitely not forgiving if I lug the engine.
I did a suspension upgrade on my 2003 FXDWG last year which included replacing the front and rear motor mounts and installing a TrueTrack stabilizer front and rear along with new rear shocks and fork cartridges. The stabilizer facilitates a more rigid connection between the motor and frame and provides 2 additional points of motor and frame connection. I did my upgrade in 2 stages with new motor mounts and stabilizer added first followed by shocks and fork cartridges. Even before replacing the front and rear suspension, just installing the stabilizer and motor mounts made a significant difference. The bike tracked more true through the curves with a more stable solid feel overall without wobble and extraneous vibration. This was only improved with new shocks and cartridges.
P.S. TrueTrack reccommended using Harley OEM motor mounts as replacements to reduce the vibration potential as the material used in after market products may be stiffer with resultant increased vibration. Some have reported experiencing a vibration increase with the addition of a stabilizer. I followed the TrueTrack advice with good results.
Last edited by Bosnianrider; Jan 9, 2018 at 05:30 AM.
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