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Has anyone switched their original HD master cylinder with another one? Im swapping out the 1" bar to 7/8" rentals and upgrading the brake and clutch levers is a must. Im already running brembo caliber in front.
My question is: somebody done this before and what did you do with the brake light? Is it as simple as connecting the existing wires to the new unit? I think the new unit has the same logic as the HD, button in - light off, button out - light on.
That's 2 questions lol. Brake light switch in the twist grip assembly operated by the brake lever. Watch out you don't break the end of the switch off.
The used bike I bought had a right abortion of bits as the owner broke the button off the end.
I am swapping out the rear on a Sportster for a 11/16" Nissin. They are used on Hondas.
I am converting the Sportster to a trike driving 2 calipers and the Nissin was the one recommended.
Last edited by Andy from Sandy; Oct 3, 2018 at 11:35 AM.
Haha yeah, 2 questions, my bad! What do you mean by the end of the switch?
Im just thinking on connecting the 2 wires to the 2 connecters you can see on this unit. In my head it should work without problems...
Different bike, different switch type, sorry about that.
The one on the Sportster is a lot smaller with the button protruding out from the twist grip assembly. The lever assembly butts up to it and it is easy to damage the switch.
I think all the HD switch its all the same - switch from the "switch controller housing". Im not using that switch, im just thinking on using the wires connecting to this switch. New master cylinder with brake lever matching the cylinder, the oem switch will be useless then.
I used a Goodridge pressure switch on my custom setup. It seemed a lot easier than fabricating something mechanical. It just replaces the normal banjo bolt. Not sure, but they probably offer various sizes and such.
I see! How is the reliability on the pressure switch?
I didnt come over this pressure switch so Ive only looked at master cylinders with mechanical switch. Its brilliant!
I can't speak to the reliability of this exact switch but the same technology is used on our OEM rear brakes.
I'm using two of them. One front, one rear. They aren't as sensitive as the factory mechanical lever switch but that could easily be a variable with differing brake setups.
Okey. Maybe its better with the mechanic switch. Will update when Im getting the new bar setup. I could test it out now, but dont want to f*** up anything right now. Waiting for the snow to come first
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