Flywheel Runout over .020.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: poway
So you didn't get rid of this one soon enough?
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,525
Likes: 6,406
From: Honah Lee
This has been a interesting thread for a mechanical/engineering point.
Obiviously the vague details of the problem make it that much more difficult.
I researched the detail of what Harley says is allowable and unless you say how part was inspected is impossible to determine.
Know using vibration to determine a crank is bad would be a witch hunt. Even some popular indicator holding devices propular are not correct.
Most twin cam service give two figures for a crank using an indicator
The one that list the smaller value is at the center shaft near the bearin and I believe is .002 total on a indicator.
The other is .012 and that is up on the large diameter of the crank only inspectable with cylinders off. I think also, it is an offset and if indicator moves .013, crank is bad.
If the crank did so called sissor, the large crank face would hit the block or bind the bearings.
Again just my opinion.
Obiviously the vague details of the problem make it that much more difficult.
I researched the detail of what Harley says is allowable and unless you say how part was inspected is impossible to determine.
Know using vibration to determine a crank is bad would be a witch hunt. Even some popular indicator holding devices propular are not correct.
Most twin cam service give two figures for a crank using an indicator
The one that list the smaller value is at the center shaft near the bearin and I believe is .002 total on a indicator.
The other is .012 and that is up on the large diameter of the crank only inspectable with cylinders off. I think also, it is an offset and if indicator moves .013, crank is bad.
If the crank did so called sissor, the large crank face would hit the block or bind the bearings.
Again just my opinion.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Dec 8, 2018 at 11:25 AM.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 1,333
Likes: 355
From: San Diego
HB, I think you need to clearly and accurately define your endgame for this bike.
Seems like you want a stock-ish Harley or to just get out from under it. Correct?
Given that, I don't think it makes sense to spend a bunch on top shelf performance parts just to take a loss on a near-term sale.
Now, if you're looking to take it up a few notches and build a fire breathing 110-125...have at it. You'll appreciate the peace of mind.
I think a verified-good stock crank is probably adequate if you intend to keep it mostly stock and ride in a mature manner. If you plan to start really romping on it the S&S may be good for peace of mind.
I thinknit really all boils down to your future intentions.
Seems like you want a stock-ish Harley or to just get out from under it. Correct?
Given that, I don't think it makes sense to spend a bunch on top shelf performance parts just to take a loss on a near-term sale.
Now, if you're looking to take it up a few notches and build a fire breathing 110-125...have at it. You'll appreciate the peace of mind.
I think a verified-good stock crank is probably adequate if you intend to keep it mostly stock and ride in a mature manner. If you plan to start really romping on it the S&S may be good for peace of mind.
I thinknit really all boils down to your future intentions.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 19,893
Likes: 8,002
From: poway
Unfortunately I really haven't gotten rid of many bikes in the last 20 years.. My point is you finally owned one long enough to have a failure. 
. If you plan on keeping it, go for the SnS crank.
. If you plan on keeping it, go for the SnS crank.
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