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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
One thing to note is that the FXDX has cartridge forks (not sure about the 99s tho). The spring is preloaded on the damping rod so you don't have to worry about the spring until you remove it from the cartridge. Service manual shows one way to do it. It typically takes 2 people.. You need to compress the spring enough to break loose the fork cap from the damping rod and remove.
On assembly after the spring has been compressed and installed on the cartridge, there really isn't any pressure required to install the fork cap into the tube.. The marking of the fork cap works well for damping rod forks but is not needed for cartridge forks.
Tarik, I think the reference (or at least mine is ) was to the clearance of the Vertical_Drop from the Back Jaw to Bench Top ... as a General Shop Practice.
Do you have clearance?
Thanks (a thread is not a thread without "Red Arrows By Multi")!
Yes, I believe I understood what you (and Howard) were referring to. I recall struggling with this years ago when I bolted the vise to my bench. As I recall, I was concerned about mounting the base parallel to the bench edge (two bolts against the edge) for two reasons: The counter is cheap particle board and I was worried about drilling close to the edge, and there was something under the top that may have interfered with the rear holes. The way the base is oriented now, it's impossible. The back jaw doesn't come past the base:
If I did spin the base, it just clears, but the holes would be right against the edge of the counter:
Basically, crummy counter, so-so vise. Or am I not understanding you properly?
Okay... Sorry for the slow progress on this, unfortunately I have a bunch of other things going on...
A couple of tool questions:
I scored this Motion Pro steering race puller and fork seal driver used on eBay, for about half price. The driver looks like it was used once, and I can't believe the race puller was ever used.
I know I have a set of race drivers somewhere, but annoyingly can't find them. Provided they turn up (and assuming the set contains an appropriate size), is there any reason I can't use this type of driver to set the steering neck races? Or is there something more specific I should have? I bought it decades ago for wheel bearings on my old Alfa time trial car. The front bearings were a weak spot and I was constantly changing them. I believe it was a Lisle set, similar (or identical) to this:
And lastly, do I need one of these for the bearing at the base of the steering stem, or is there a different way that people do this?
I have those Motion Pro tools, too. I also have the race press. The race puller is really nice. Just be extra sure the jaws are seated properly under the race before pulling or you can damage the jaws.
The neck race tool I have is a long threaded rod with anvils/platten/plates/whatever for both ends. Basically just like the wheel bearing press. I was never comfortable striking bearings but I know a LOT of people do.
I actually never used the stem bearing tool. Can't remember exactly why but I want to say the bearing was a slip fit on the 49mm stem. That or it was so good I just re-used it? Stupid memory.
If you decide you want/need that stem tool, I'm happy to send it to you.
Last edited by cggorman; Jan 15, 2019 at 07:37 PM.
Maybe something like this Split bearing Puller ...
I don't know why it never crosses my mind to raid our Service Department!
I did use our pneumatic press for my cam plate, but other than that... I never think outside of my own garage! Yes, we must have such a thing somewhere... Even in this day and age, engines still come apart in our shop!
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