Found an allllmost perfect bike except...
#1
Found an allllmost perfect bike except...
As some know I lost my bike due to a fire stemming from a carb malfunction. I’m in the market for s new bike and I came across one that is 99% for me except, it has chain drive.
I know there’s a whole chain drive thread but it’s way too long. I’m curious about running a chain, but kind of a big risk purchase if it doesn’t suit me.
A couple of questions: how many miles are chains/sprockets lasting you fellas? I commute 100miles a day, I’m ok lubing and maintaining, but wondering how often I’ll have to be replacing parts.
Additionally, are people running passenger pegs? All the examples I see have them removed and some even have extra slider protection instead of pegs.
Thanks!
I know there’s a whole chain drive thread but it’s way too long. I’m curious about running a chain, but kind of a big risk purchase if it doesn’t suit me.
A couple of questions: how many miles are chains/sprockets lasting you fellas? I commute 100miles a day, I’m ok lubing and maintaining, but wondering how often I’ll have to be replacing parts.
Additionally, are people running passenger pegs? All the examples I see have them removed and some even have extra slider protection instead of pegs.
Thanks!
#2
This Dyna is actually the first bike I've had that doesn't have a chain. In general, with good maintenance, you can get 12-15,000 miles from a chain. Of course, lighter chains or more powerful engines will get you less. I always replace the sprockets at the same time. They wear into the old chain and won't fit a new chain properly, resulting in less life from the new chain. Not worth the difference in cost, IMHO. There are a number of oilers you can get, some automatic (Scott oiler, Tutoro), others just more convenient that doing it by hand (Loobman). If you're doing 100 miles a day you're going to be looking at oiling it every 4 or 5 days.
#3
As some know I lost my bike due to a fire stemming from a carb malfunction. I’m in the market for s new bike and I came across one that is 99% for me except, it has chain drive.
I know there’s a whole chain drive thread but it’s way too long. I’m curious about running a chain, but kind of a big risk purchase if it doesn’t suit me.
A couple of questions: how many miles are chains/sprockets lasting you fellas? I commute 100miles a day, I’m ok lubing and maintaining, but wondering how often I’ll have to be replacing parts.
Additionally, are people running passenger pegs? All the examples I see have them removed and some even have extra slider protection instead of pegs.
Thanks!
I know there’s a whole chain drive thread but it’s way too long. I’m curious about running a chain, but kind of a big risk purchase if it doesn’t suit me.
A couple of questions: how many miles are chains/sprockets lasting you fellas? I commute 100miles a day, I’m ok lubing and maintaining, but wondering how often I’ll have to be replacing parts.
Additionally, are people running passenger pegs? All the examples I see have them removed and some even have extra slider protection instead of pegs.
Thanks!
That fire situation was definitely scary...
#4
Why would that be a BIG Risk? ... Assuming it's a bike (you posted in the Dyna section) that came originally with a belt, just change it back if it doesn't work out.
You did say ... 99% perfect for you
You did say ... 99% perfect for you
#5
#6
Long time chain rider with a heavy throttle hand here's my advice, you keep the chain do your homework on what the most long lived sprockets & chain brands will be and NEVER go cheap. At a 100mi a day you'll chew through the less expensive stuff quick, even on my shovel I could go through 3 chains and 2 sets of sprockets a season doing the cheap stuff. Tsubaki high end O-ring chains lasted me the longest I could get 20k but your looking at up to $250+ for one. Sprockets you'll have to research with the sport bike craze now I'm sure there's much better stuff available than when I ran them.
With a good oring chain you'll be looking at adjusting weekly if you want max life out of things and lubing every 300-400mi. and use a high grade tacky or dry graphite lube over a lighter oil based, less mess. You will notice a slight vibration & whine at higher speeds with a chain over a belt. Watch the rear sprocket teeth, when the start getting a pointed tip and the pocket looks stretched to the front side it's replacement time otherwise wear accelerates quickly at this point and a busted chain is no joke if it decides to jam up in there, will break castings.
With a good oring chain you'll be looking at adjusting weekly if you want max life out of things and lubing every 300-400mi. and use a high grade tacky or dry graphite lube over a lighter oil based, less mess. You will notice a slight vibration & whine at higher speeds with a chain over a belt. Watch the rear sprocket teeth, when the start getting a pointed tip and the pocket looks stretched to the front side it's replacement time otherwise wear accelerates quickly at this point and a busted chain is no joke if it decides to jam up in there, will break castings.
Last edited by TwiZted Biker; 02-16-2019 at 03:13 PM.
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JayStronghawk (02-27-2019)
#7
Clean and relube the chain every 500 km or so
Check slack everytime you do clean
Long term, change the chain every 25-30K km
-not sure how this converts into miles
Your good to go. Nothing risky about having a chain. Just keep it lubed and cleaned. I'd be more interested what's in that engine that required the prior owner to go with a chain. I'm assuming it's a stage 2+ type of modification?
Check slack everytime you do clean
Long term, change the chain every 25-30K km
-not sure how this converts into miles
Your good to go. Nothing risky about having a chain. Just keep it lubed and cleaned. I'd be more interested what's in that engine that required the prior owner to go with a chain. I'm assuming it's a stage 2+ type of modification?
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#8
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