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One thing everyone is forgetting is that you need to conduct the whole power train alignment procedure if you are changing your mount or mounts.
Its no dam good just to throw on a new mount (no matter which one) if you not going to align the power train.....it needs to be done or your wasting your time and money,
Personally the predator front mount and sputh or CCE rear with the power train zeroed out and your bike will be rock solid
I am curious, since I am pretty new to all this this post made me think of a question. What exactly is being aligned when aligning the power train? What is it that needs aligning when new mounts are put in...is it simply making sure the engine is "square" in the frame with the new mounts?
Sorry for the noob question...I am in the process of going thru my bike (picked it up middle of last summer) and am always up for learning things about them! I do have the Dyna Service Manual for my Fat Bob and do refer to it as needed but this "alignment" topic has thrown me off.
At what point, or how do I know when they need replaced? I have almost 33k miles on mine right now...about 1200 of them I have put on is all.
Last edited by fatbob_jay; Apr 23, 2019 at 10:20 AM.
I am curious, since I am pretty new to all this this post made me think of a question. What exactly is being aligned when aligning the power train? What is it that needs aligning when new mounts are put in...is it simply making sure the engine is "square" in the frame with the new mounts?
Sorry for the noob question...I am in the process of going thru my bike (picked it up middle of last summer) and am always up for learning things about them! I do have the Dyna Service Manual for my Fat Bob and do refer to it as needed but this "alignment" topic has thrown me off.
At what point, or how do I know when they need replaced? I have almost 33k miles on mine right now...about 1200 of them I have put on is all.
This thread covers my method of aligning the engine/swingarm vertically. Some people have gone further and shimmed the whole drivetrain left-to-right in the frame, but this requires really careful measurements and I've never found a need for anything beyond the procedure here. The first time I did this, everything was stock. It was "in the ballpark" before I touched it, but not perfect. Once you understand that the rear wheel is located by the swingarm and the swingarm is located by the engine/tranny, the importance of this becomes clear. I always like to give MattVA some credit here, as I based this procedure on an old post of his.
This thread covers my method of aligning the engine/swingarm vertically. Some people have gone further and shimmed the whole drivetrain left-to-right in the frame, but this requires really careful measurements and I've never found a need for anything beyond the procedure here. The first time I did this, everything was stock. It was "in the ballpark" before I touched it, but not perfect. Once you understand that the rear wheel is located by the swingarm and the swingarm is located by the engine/tranny, the importance of this becomes clear. I always like to give MattVA some credit here, as I based this procedure on an old post of his.
Thanks for that link, great thread there! Lots of information, honestly most of which was/is a bit confusing to me at this point but does give great details for the process! May be something I look at...although I don't have any complaints on my bikes handling but this makes me wonder if it could be oh so much better lol.
Thanks for that link, great thread there! Lots of information, honestly most of which was/is a bit confusing to me at this point but does give great details for the process! May be something I look at...although I don't have any complaints on my bikes handling but this makes me wonder if it could be oh so much better lol.
It's certainly possible that you're in alignment already. If curious, you can check it without taking much apart... Although removing the tank makes it easier. Also, keep in mind that you don't need to install the Sputhe or change the top mount to align things, those are just things I chose to do. But having a proper turnbuckle up top makes it MUCH easier!
It's certainly possible that you're in alignment already. If curious, you can check it without taking much apart... Although removing the tank makes it easier. Also, keep in mind that you don't need to install the Sputhe or change the top mount to align things, those are just things I chose to do. But having a proper turnbuckle up top makes it MUCH easier!
I really didn't mean to hijack this thread! That being said, my tank, seat and both fenders are currently off my bike as they are in getting paint and graphics done...sounds like a good time to at least check this out! Thanks again!!
Remove tank and seat. Block your bike upright and use a carpenter's level across the frame top tubes to get it level, side to side. Loosen the top turnbuckle that resides under the tank. Use another level vertically placed on the rear belt pulley or wheel rim. Adjust the top turnbuckle to bring the rear wheel (and therefore the total drive train) into level with the frame that you have leveled. This aligns the wheel and motor in the vertical plane.
Next, use any of several methods to align the rear wheel side-to-side vis-a-vis the frame and front wheel using the axle adjusters on each side. I have been successful with one of the small laser alignment lights aligned off the rear wheel or sprocket. Others use long straight tubes or simply measure each side of the swing arm in relation to the main frame to get the swing arm straight.
Be sure that top turnbuckle is bolted up and tightened.
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Last edited by leafman60; Apr 24, 2019 at 07:00 AM.
Thanks F86 for your post, you beat me to it and to give credit where credit is due, I post links to F86’s post all the time when asked about the process. I use it on my bikes and it’s a very simple process once you figure it all out.
The best part about alignment is that it’s free to do, a couple of tools... but the rest is just your time.
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