Diagnosing the wobble
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 2,840
Likes: 900
From: Philly Suburbs
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 2,840
Likes: 900
From: Philly Suburbs
While not the only way to do this I'm sure, here's a thread describing my alignment method:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...top-mount.html
One bit of opinion about alignment (which other people might disagree with)... I've often seen the suggestion to use levels on the front and rear rotor to make sure both wheels are in the same plane. I think the SM may even mention this. I'm not a fan of this method at all... If you don't have a way to confirm that the forks are PERFECTLY straight in relation to the frame, that measurement is pretty much worthless. Due to the rake of the fork, the slightest deviation from a true centerline results in the rotor no longer being vertical. I've stood my bike up straight, verified with a level across the frame, and placed an inclinometer on a front rotor. The slightest lateral tap against the front tire changes the reading on the inclinometer, even though the fork still looks straight by eye. Of course, my method assumes the top of the frame is correct, which it may not be. I put an inclinometer on various parts of the frame, and chose a location where the reading is consistent with several other locations.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...top-mount.html
One bit of opinion about alignment (which other people might disagree with)... I've often seen the suggestion to use levels on the front and rear rotor to make sure both wheels are in the same plane. I think the SM may even mention this. I'm not a fan of this method at all... If you don't have a way to confirm that the forks are PERFECTLY straight in relation to the frame, that measurement is pretty much worthless. Due to the rake of the fork, the slightest deviation from a true centerline results in the rotor no longer being vertical. I've stood my bike up straight, verified with a level across the frame, and placed an inclinometer on a front rotor. The slightest lateral tap against the front tire changes the reading on the inclinometer, even though the fork still looks straight by eye. Of course, my method assumes the top of the frame is correct, which it may not be. I put an inclinometer on various parts of the frame, and chose a location where the reading is consistent with several other locations.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 19,925
Likes: 8,027
From: poway
Wow, I didn't know that... If that's truly the case, that actually sounds idiotic. So the MoCo took a well-known design deficiency and made it worse in later models? If this is true, someone above posted a link to the adjustable top link I use. Something along those lines would be necessary for proper alignment.
I should've asked more details earlier... When the OP said he made sure the tires were properly aligned with each other, I kinda assumed he meant that a proper drivetrain/swingarm alignment was performed. If that wasn't what was meant, then yes... Absolutely no point in trying anything else without doing that first!
I should've asked more details earlier... When the OP said he made sure the tires were properly aligned with each other, I kinda assumed he meant that a proper drivetrain/swingarm alignment was performed. If that wasn't what was meant, then yes... Absolutely no point in trying anything else without doing that first!
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 2,840
Likes: 900
From: Philly Suburbs
Yup, that's what I did.
Road Master
Joined: Oct 2017
Posts: 815
Likes: 292
From: Uptown Bay Area, Cali
OP, it is alignment that is causing your issue. I had an alignment shop that has a CMM to get everything perfect. It tracked true at 130 in a sweeper and 145 straight. Mind you, if you sit up at high speeds, and act like a parachute, you can induce a wobble. Up to 120, I can be sitting up, after I need to be hugging the tank.
With the above said, I just had my chain tensioned (chain conversion), and I can feel that the rear axle adjusters were not exactly turned out equally, and it didnt feel the same last night doing 130+ in a straight away. The most smallest of adjustments can effect the handling. I have a FXDLS modded heavily also.
Hope that helps,
Dave
With the above said, I just had my chain tensioned (chain conversion), and I can feel that the rear axle adjusters were not exactly turned out equally, and it didnt feel the same last night doing 130+ in a straight away. The most smallest of adjustments can effect the handling. I have a FXDLS modded heavily also.
Hope that helps,
Dave
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 2,840
Likes: 900
From: Philly Suburbs
I started with a cheap eBay stainless top link intended as an SBC alternator belt tensioner, but later upgraded the end with some nicer stainless ends from McMaster Carr (or was it Midwest Controls?). I followed cggorman's lead on upgrading the rod ends... The cheap ones worked, but were a little "clunky" and squeaky... I lubed them regularly, but the new ones are much nicer.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 110
Likes: 9
From: Georgia
OP, it is alignment that is causing your issue. I had an alignment shop that has a CMM to get everything perfect. It tracked true at 130 in a sweeper and 145 straight. Mind you, if you sit up at high speeds, and act like a parachute, you can induce a wobble. Up to 120, I can be sitting up, after I need to be hugging the tank.
With the above said, I just had my chain tensioned (chain conversion), and I can feel that the rear axle adjusters were not exactly turned out equally, and it didnt feel the same last night doing 130+ in a straight away. The most smallest of adjustments can effect the handling. I have a FXDLS modded heavily also.
Hope that helps,
Dave
With the above said, I just had my chain tensioned (chain conversion), and I can feel that the rear axle adjusters were not exactly turned out equally, and it didnt feel the same last night doing 130+ in a straight away. The most smallest of adjustments can effect the handling. I have a FXDLS modded heavily also.
Hope that helps,
Dave
I use the 90 degree wire method to align my wheel, made sure measurements are the same on either side, then check belt tension and alignment on pulley. As far as I can tell it's as close as it can be, but it is, afterall, a very unscientific method compared to my metric bikes with actual notched adjusters.
I will attempt a chassis alignment today, but I'm betting it's good as the bike is only 2 yrs old without any major overhauls or accidents.
As for rider position, I do sit upright, as I have a stepup seat and 13" bars with an 11" fairing, but removing the fairing completely and 'tucking in' at speed provided no benefit. The bike wobbles just the same.
Can anyone provide a link to demonstrate a foolproof method to align the wheels to the chassis, etc?
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