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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
I've done CSS a few times and Yamaha Champions School. Here's my other ride...
@SpyGoat
Very cool! I've done CSS six times now, and probably will go this summer again (at Thunderbolt). But I've really been curious about Yamaha School of Champions... I have a good friend who's a NESBA/N2 Control Rider, and he's always raving about it... A bit more of a financial commitment than a single CSS day, though. But sometimes I feel that I've kind of gotten what I can get from CSS now (with the simple exception of seat time, which is always good). Any thoughts between the two programs?
Sorry for the brief thread hijack! Here's my other ride:
@SpyGoat
Very cool! I've done CSS six times now, and probably will go this summer again (at Thunderbolt). But I've really been curious about Yamaha School of Champions... I have a good friend who's a NESBA/N2 Control Rider, and he's always raving about it... A bit more of a financial commitment than a single CSS day, though. But sometimes I feel that I've kind of gotten what I can get from CSS now (with the simple exception of seat time, which is always good). Any thoughts between the two programs?
Sorry for the brief thread hijack! Here's my other ride:
Nice bike! The Yamaha school is more in depth, more seat time and definitely more challenging. They both have their pluses and negatives, but overall, if you've maxed out CSS, give YCS a run. Its at NJMP so you should feel right at home!
A far more accurate way to measure wheel alignment is to strap some long straight edges to the wheel/tire (above the bulge near the pavement).
Repeat with the wheel in different degrees of rotation to rule out tire or rim runout.
fluorescent tube lamps are extremely straight and cheap. There are also various construction tools that can do it nicely. Circular saw guide fences, levels, drywall square, etc. Aluminum extrusion is also decent.
Similar to this...the tubes are held together with elastic bands.
Note that many Dynas have some wheel/tire offset, so the left and right dimensions may be different. It will take some measuring and analysis to sort that out but I don't trust those factory alignment holes at all.
Last edited by cggorman; Jan 11, 2020 at 08:14 PM.
A far more accurate way to measure wheel alignment is to strap some long straight edges to the wheel/tire (above the bulge near the pavement).
Repeat with the wheel in different degrees of rotation to rule out tire or rim runout.
fluorescent tube lamps are extremely straight and cheap. There are also various construction tools that can do it nicely. Circular saw guide fences, levels, drywall square, etc. Aluminum extrusion is also decent.
Similar to this...the tubes are held together with elastic bands.
Note that many Dynas have some wheel/tire offset, so the left and right dimensions may be different. It will take some measuring and analysis to sort that out but I don't trust those factory alignment holes at all.
I just purchased some lazer levels for maximum precision. I'm going to follow the glidepro route and do a motor to frame to wheel examination which should more or less tell me if my bike is jacked up.
But as far as I can tell my rear wheel is aligned to spec. The bike tracks straight on a smooth road and doesn't pull. It's the motor-to-frame alignment that concerns me. Something is causing a wobble in high-speed turns, and if it ain't the alignment, it's the shitty HD tires, because everything else has been checked.
I have found that lasers are somewhat less precise than good straight edges at the distances we are discussing, but my lasers have mostly been low cost. Above 8 feet I move to string or laser, but I can never seem to get a confident measurement inside about +/-.060" with my lasers at 3-6 feet or so. Might just be me or my tools.
A good laser target seems to be very important, but I haven't looked into what makes for a good one.
Regardless, good luck! Data is always good.
Don't overlook unwanted or impromper compliance anywhere in the chassis. Spring rate and sag, as well as damping, can cause instability. My stock riser bushings weren't much better than bubble gum at keeping my bar-to-tree alignment. I could get an easy inch of play at the grips before I changed to solid bushings. The top link on the engine of my '99 also had rubber bushings that allowed a lot of movement. Things like that can allow unpredictable movement that could be dangerous at high speeds.
Oh, and tire pressures...
Last edited by cggorman; Jan 11, 2020 at 10:01 PM.
Ok so I jacked the bike up, put some levels on it, and lazered from rotor to rotor. With the frame at a perfect 0° the rear wheel read 90° to the frame and the lazers were parallel down the line to within a 32nd of an inch. Is there more to it than that?
Took it out for a spin and the bike still wobbles when leaned at speeds over 80mph.
Ok so I jacked the bike up, put some levels on it, and lazered from rotor to rotor. With the frame at a perfect 0° the rear wheel read 90° to the frame and the lazers were parallel down the line to within a 32nd of an inch. Is there more to it than that?
Took it out for a spin and the bike still wobbles when leaned at speeds over 80mph.
Guess I'll be looking into some new rubber.
I have stock rubber on mine. I would get in touch with these people:
And talk to them. The swingarm bolt, rear axle bolt, front axle bolt, and steering neck shaft all have to be perfectly aligned. I would suggest you also add this:
The shop had to adjust my swingarm bolt to be perpendicular to the steering neck, and without the above, it would have not been possible without them custom machining the stock mount.
Another thing to add is fork twist, which my bike had before the alignment.
As you can see, there are lots of geometries that need to be spot on if you want your Dyna to handle well at high speeds. If you are determined to DIY, I would invest in some piano string. That is more accurate than lasers, IMO.
I got a slight wobble in my front end. I had just gotten a new front tire and thought it was that. Turned out to be the rear wheel bearing getting ready to explode and lock up, I spent a ton of time chasing gremlins in the front that didnt exist.
And talk to them. The swingarm bolt, rear axle bolt, front axle bolt, and steering neck shaft all have to be perfectly aligned. I would suggest you also add this:
The shop had to adjust my swingarm bolt to be perpendicular to the steering neck, and without the above, it would have not been possible without them custom machining the stock mount.
Another thing to add is fork twist, which my bike had before the alignment.
As you can see, there are lots of geometries that need to be spot on if you want your Dyna to handle well at high speeds. If you are determined to DIY, I would invest in some piano string. That is more accurate than lasers, IMO.
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