I don't see the Sputhe link on their website. What is their p/n?

 

This is what Sputhe told me, "To place the order, please email us your shipping address. Then, I will email you an invoice via Authorize.net and once payment is completed the order will ship." I presume you reference Dyna Top Link.

 

Nothing fancy here. They use heim joints (aka rose joint, aka, spherical bearing rod end.) and turnbuckles (or jack screws) overseas. Anybody in your region that sells industrial and/or machine supplies will have a selection.

Many better custom auto/race shops also stock this stuff. They're used all over a certain class of cars and trucks for suspension and linkage.

in the states...just a few....
Speedway
Jegs
Summit
McMaster-Carr
Grainger
MSC
Midwest Control (my preference)

As far as Sputhe pricing goes... I built my own from parts and probably spent US$50 or more. Quality stainless heims aren't exactly cheap....and cheap ones aren't exactly quality.

 

Guess COD passed away with Alan ... the first part of that statement is the only good thing

 

Ramjet racing carries Sputhe, might reach out to those guys and see if they have it.

 

I will go to the local professional hardware store tomorrow and try to build one myself #fingercrossed

 

Funny story... I managed to align the engine 100%(according to the two digital leveler), and the oem top link was to long on the shortest setting. He he he......... smh

 

Hmm... Was the front mount tight or loose when you checked alignment? I do it loose, in the engine position changes slightly in order to achieve alignment. I wonder if the engine is sitting slightly to one side?

 

Both front and rear mount was on. I only loosened the sputhe stabilators links. hmm how can I measure if the engine is sitting to one side and how is it possible?

I could cut and shorten the oem link, but thats just if I cant make myself a custom link tomorrow.

 

I don't mean that you need to measure for engine location. But adjusting the top link with both mounts tight (especially the front) means that any movement at the top is fighting against the rubber in the mounts. You don't want the rubber to be "preloaded" in either direction, and sometimes you may actually end up pushing the motor into an awkward spot (slightly). The first time I did this I didn't loosen the front mount (Predator), and it was difficult to adjust the top. Now I loosen the front, the whole drivetrain rolls back and forth really easily with the top turnbuckle, and it all gets tightened without preloading the mount up front. If that makes sense.