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Blacking out fork lowers

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Old Feb 27, 2020 | 02:05 PM
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Default Blacking out fork lowers

So I got the new wheel and rotor on after polishing up the lowers and raising the fender and fork brace back to the stock height. I wasn't particularly happy with the look of the front end afterword.

It didn't bother me before but I also had aluminum rims. I had thought about replacing the lowers with some chrome ones when the wheel was off but I'm glad I didn't now. I think I'm thrown by the chrome upper, aluminum lower, then contrasting with the black rim and chrome spokes. I think I'm going to like it better with black lowers so today I took the front end back apart to get ready to sand the clear coat off.

I'm planning on using some wet 220 then some wet 400 to take the clear off. I've got some Rustoleum bare metal primer and glossy enamel paint to try on it next week.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2020 | 02:39 PM
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Have you tried Dura Coat...It's actually Polane a Polyurethane Enamel. https://www.duracoatfirearmfinishes.com/

Goes on easily and is tough as nails...you can handle in an hour or so and fully cures after a week.

McMillian gun stocks are painted with it. I've used it on many projects.


 
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Old Feb 27, 2020 | 03:06 PM
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If I don’t have time/funds for powdercoat, I use Appliance Enamel. In fact I’ll be using it this weekend on my lowers. Super tough, goes on like normal paint after prep and holds up really well to road use. I used to get it at an appliance warehouse when I lived in Las Vegas but most hardware stores carry it as well. I just sanded down my lowers first with 200, then green pad to get the stock clear coat stuff )what was left of it) and 3-4 coats of that stuff, I’ll bring it in the house if it’s under 70 deg overnight and next day it’s ready to rock.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2020 | 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Jay Guild
I'm planning on using some wet 220 then some wet 400 to take the clear off.
Save yourself a lot of time and aggravation! Get a bottle of Citristrip and be done with it in 10 minutes.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2020 | 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Blue Bob
Have you tried Dura Coat...It's actually Polane a Polyurethane Enamel. https://www.duracoatfirearmfinishes.com/

Goes on easily and is tough as nails...you can handle in an hour or so and fully cures after a week.

McMillian gun stocks are painted with it. I've used it on many projects.


The Dura Coat stuff looks great but it doesn't have the gloss I'm looking for.
Originally Posted by shiftace
If I don’t have time/funds for powdercoat, I use Appliance Enamel. In fact I’ll be using it this weekend on my lowers. Super tough, goes on like normal paint after prep and holds up really well to road use. I used to get it at an appliance warehouse when I lived in Las Vegas but most hardware stores carry it as well. I just sanded down my lowers first with 200, then green pad to get the stock clear coat stuff )what was left of it) and 3-4 coats of that stuff, I’ll bring it in the house if it’s under 70 deg overnight and next day it’s ready to rock.
The gloss enamel I am using is basically appliance enamel, it just doesn't have primer mixed in. I'm doing the primer in separate coats and only adds 20 minutes to the process. Gives a little better finish.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2020 | 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Jay Guild
The Dura Coat stuff looks great but it doesn't have the gloss I'm looking for.

The gloss enamel I am using is basically appliance enamel, it just doesn't have primer mixed in. I'm doing the primer in separate coats and only adds 20 minutes to the process. Gives a little better finish.
Just clearcoat Dura Coat for shine.
 
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Old Feb 27, 2020 | 10:04 PM
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this is about 8 months post-appliance epoxy. It shines if you prep and hit it with a bunch of coats. 1 or 2 $3 spray cans vs disassembling whole front end/fork assembly, send out to powder for a couple hundred dollars, and then reassembly. I’ve done this to my last 4 bikes and it’s shiny black and dries hard rocks, holds up and doesn’t fade.


 
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Old Feb 28, 2020 | 09:47 AM
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I have used the appliance epoxy before to black out my oil relocation filter housing. Three years and it still looks pretty good. Did you use the same epoxy to black out the bolt heads?
 

Last edited by Jay Guild; Feb 28, 2020 at 09:48 AM.
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Old Feb 28, 2020 | 10:46 AM
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Epoxy rattle can paint is really no more than a good enamel paint.

True epoxy spray paint has two parts that require mixing.

Dura coat is a 2 part system and much more resistant to bug guts and acid rain.

Glad to hear it works for some people because truly is a lot easier to just prep and spray.

Another option I took was to power coat my own parts...not hard but I know that's a relative term.

 
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Old Feb 28, 2020 | 05:35 PM
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I like the duracoat option. I've been wanting to do my forks but didn't want to go through the hassle of disassembly and sending out to get powder coated. I may give that a try, its cheap enough. Do you still have to sand the lowers before application?
 

Last edited by shodown220; Feb 28, 2020 at 05:42 PM.
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