What is the easy way? Do I remove the tank? Thanks. 2007 lowrider.

 

Guess I would try a wrench.

 

Wow - I should have tried what you call a wrench.

Sorry I did not write a huge long post. I am in the garage trying to figure out my vibration problem. I am checking the motor mounts. I pulled the front one off and put in the shims as one guy posted earlier. Now I am moving to my top mount. Looks like I will need to remove the tank. I know a lot of people here have removed the tank, and I know a lot of people messed with the top mount. That is why I asked a quick simple question. Like the time I discovered it is easier to drop an engine in a 72 Olds cutlass when the headers are laid in placeinstead of installing them after you drop the engine. I had to figure that out on my own the hard way... or discovering there is a diference between a 455ci motor mount and a 350. A bit of info someone could have shared with me at the time if internet was around.

Looking at the manual, I guess I can loosen all of the mounts and "reset" the position of the motor. Somehow between the top mount and rear wheel alignment, it centers the discs on the front and rear. How the top effects the alignment of discs? I do not know... yet. I am going on a 300 mile round trip tomorrow and would really like to unf*&k what the dealer did to me. Sorry - very frustrated with HD in general. Mailed a two page letter to the MoCo yesterday. I love my bike, but what a piece of Sh*t......

250 miles - flywheel replaced - broken teeth and Ocala HD scratched my fender and primary
250 miles - also discovered my handlebars were bent??? WTF
250 miles - speedometer jumps around
250 miles - bike pulls to the left

1000 miles hit a deer, bent forks and headlight. (Did not dump the bike).
1000 miles - get the bike back from Ridge HD- loose tripple tree stem nut cover - loose headlight, and LOOSE HANDLEBARS! Speedometer still jumps around, bike STILL pulls to the left, and now my fork tube is developing score marks from poor assembley to the lower fork tube. And now my bike vibrates so bad I need to pull the clutch in to see out of my rear view mirrors.

And to top it all off - the packaging to the HARLEY DAVIDSON aftermarket chrome handlebars have a sticker "MADE IN TAIWAN!!!"

Sorry - had to vent a bit.

 

can remove front bolt lift tank and reinsert bolt and rest tank do same at rear can give more room. chock up if need.
tie bike upright.put a spirit level on front wheel.get it vertical and then check against rear wheel.is close way of checking
top adjuster and make sure is tight.
ps. hope your front end isnt bent

 

also check front to rear wheel allign.make sure they both point the same direction.

 

Rocket, you can get at the stabilizer link by lifting the back of the tank and holding it up with a 2x4. Disconnect your fuel line before you lift the tank, the plastic hose barb on the induction module end will snap off real easy.
The top stabilizer adjustment affects the rear brake rotor alignment because the swingarm is mounted to the transmission which is mounted to the engine.

 

Holy cow sounds like you should of finished off the bike after the deer crash for a total, can you say "lemon".
Hope things get better after all that!

 

How often do you check the motor mount and stablizer. I have 40,000 miles on my 98 glide and never did any of this. I do all my other services on my bike. I don't beat the hell out the bike.She runs great and know vibrations