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Spark plug stuck??

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Old Oct 15, 2020 | 09:13 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by NO4NJNK
I just went and took another, closer look at the threads. They really dont look that bad.
it looks as though i could run a tap through the threads and they would work just fine?
You could try a thread chaser to clean them, then insert a new plug and torque to specs. If the new plug tightens to specs you're good to go.
 
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Old Oct 15, 2020 | 09:14 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by MRFREEZE57
curious, is this the first time the plugs have been removed? in my younger days I stripped my share of plug threads but never had one do as you had happen. wondering if this happened when the bike was assembled?
sorry, re read your thread saying they were 1 week old but with that said my guess would be they were over tightened. did my share of that in my younger days on dirt bikes, lucky dad was a machinist and could fix them.
 

Last edited by MRFREEZE57; Oct 15, 2020 at 09:17 PM.
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Old Oct 15, 2020 | 09:56 PM
  #43  
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First things I thought was "REAL" Cross Thread points.
Seriously as Twizted already said, you were on the right track, then derailed. Chasing the threads and installing the plug is a failure waiting to happen. Think about being on a great ride in the middle of nowhere and a plug blows out.
Pull the head, or have it done, and have it repaired properly.

Just curious, did I read you had installed them 1 week earlier? Why were you pulling them?
 
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Old Oct 16, 2020 | 04:10 AM
  #44  
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Just for information. 1996 Softail HD Service manual 8-13 . "Apply engine oil to threads"
2015 HD street 750 page 2-41 verify threads are clean and dry.
2007 Touring bike service manual 1-14 Apply a very light coating of Loctite Anti-Seize Lubricant
to spark plug threads.
You get the point. It varies depending on the year of the bike. Materials used change and so do how things are done
 
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Old Oct 16, 2020 | 04:34 AM
  #45  
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The 2012 Softail FSM states to use anti-seize on the spark plug threads and torque to 12-16 ft-lbs. Others recommended reducing the torque when using anti-seize. If the factory recommended using anti-seize I would follow their recommended torque spec.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2020 | 07:53 AM
  #46  
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My manual says Loctite anti-sieze and 12-18 ft-lbs. Sounds about right.

If I were you, I'd have someone install a heli-coil and never look back.

If you don't want to do that, get yourself a 14mm thread chaser (not a tap!) and carefully run it down the hole. Put heavy grease on it to catch any chips and make sure you get it started straight. Run it all the way down then back out. Clean the grease off, re-grease it and repeat. Then install the plug (with anti-seize) finger tight. Verify you can turn it all the way down until the gasket contacts the head, with your fingers, and it is straight. Torque it to 15 ft lbs. If the torque required steadily increases, you're probably good to go. If it gets easier to turn as you tighten it then the threads are stripped and you need to go the heli-coil route.

IMNSHO, there is no reason to pull the head unless, somehow, things go south while you are installing the heli-coil.

You know what they say; if it ain't broke, fix it until it is.
 
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Old Oct 16, 2020 | 08:15 AM
  #47  
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My manual says Loctite anti-seize and 12-18 ft-lbs. Sounds about right.
2008 and 2017 Sportster manuals are the same.

I asked my dealer about reducing torque with Loctite and he said the manual is the correct torque to use.
 
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