Over voltage / tail light help!
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3rd Gear
Joined: Feb 2021
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From: ca
Over voltage / tail light help!
Have 2016 dyna bob. Since I have bought the bike, it has gotten Over voltage codes and red light on the dash board when I get on the freeway for more then 5 minutes. It's the only time the light pops up, and only if I'm on freeway for more then few minutes, short hops no problems. And goes away about 2 mins after leaving the freeway..
Also, I have an LED tail light, blinkers are combined with tail lamp. And after a minute or two of riding, the brake lamp and both blinkers light up. If turn on hazards, the blinkers will flash, but not when using turn signals. And full brake light is on as well, not just running lamp. So full brake lamp and both signals are all lit up, will stay that way until I shut down the bike for a few.
I just replaced Voltage regulator.
voltages with a battery at 12.6 volts resting are as follows..
12.1v at idle of about 980-1100rpm
13.0v at 4300rpm
have heard people using load equalizers to fix rapid blinking LED signals, but don't get rapid flashing. They work just great for first few minutes of ride, and flash nice and slow. But then they just all stay lit. And I don't think equalizer would explain over voltage on freeway speeds over 5 mins.
Any ideas?
Also, I have an LED tail light, blinkers are combined with tail lamp. And after a minute or two of riding, the brake lamp and both blinkers light up. If turn on hazards, the blinkers will flash, but not when using turn signals. And full brake light is on as well, not just running lamp. So full brake lamp and both signals are all lit up, will stay that way until I shut down the bike for a few.
I just replaced Voltage regulator.
voltages with a battery at 12.6 volts resting are as follows..
12.1v at idle of about 980-1100rpm
13.0v at 4300rpm
have heard people using load equalizers to fix rapid blinking LED signals, but don't get rapid flashing. They work just great for first few minutes of ride, and flash nice and slow. But then they just all stay lit. And I don't think equalizer would explain over voltage on freeway speeds over 5 mins.
Any ideas?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 9,278
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From: southeast PA
I believe that your bike uses a BCM, in which case no equalizer is needed, and it can be reset for led use by a dealer.
Did you replace the voltage regulator because it didn't test right or was it just a guess?
Did you replace the voltage regulator because it didn't test right or was it just a guess?
Thread Starter
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3rd Gear
Joined: Feb 2021
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: ca
No the Epoxy potting on back of the regulator was cracked from prior owner laying it down and had it attached to the crash bars. It worked for a few months but I'm sure water got in while washing it and it **** the bed. So had to replace it. Figured the over voltage issue would be resolved after.. but it's still shooting the code and light
Supporter
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 15,787
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From: along the shore of Mishigami
Learning about this BCM and the new wiring on the newer bikes. Are you saying the voltage at 12.1V and at 4300 rpm is at 13.0 V might be high voltage, but that doesn't explain bulbs blowing due an overcharge condition. I'm suspect to the stator shorted out, took out a reg. and the battery resting at 12.6. A fully charged batt. is 13.8V. Have you taken your derby cover off and done the old sniff test, burnt smell. Also test the stator for grounding out or shorting in the stator . As far as bulbs are you cleaning said bulbs after the install. Skin oils can cause hot spots and may cause burn outs. My 02 dyna will charge at idle 12.8 and at 2200 rpm 14.2 My 05 Dyna while at idle and at operating rpm at 14.1-14.2 V, it's EFI My '13 Road Glide will run at 13V -14.2V, these are just comparisons. Good luck.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Aug 2018
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From: New Hampsha
I'm not sure where that number comes from. Flooded cell lead acid chemistry is good for a little more than 2.1 volts per cell open circuit, or about 12.7 volts for a 6 cell, "12 volt" battery. If you measure the voltage right after charging you might get a little more than 13 volts, but, that's ahat is called a surface charge and it will disappear as soon as you put a load n the battery.
AMG technology is a little different, about 13 volts for a fully charged "12 volt" battery. Lithium iron (or ion) technology is higher still; maybe that's where the 13.8 volt number comes from. We've just started to use them in aircraft, so I'm not up on all the details.
Oh, typical operating voltage with a 12 volt battery is 14.0 - 14.7 volts. In ac we call them 14 volt systems, not 12 volts.
One thing to check is the ground reference for the voltage regulator. If it doesn't have a good ground but the generator does, then it may be thinking the voltage is lower than it really is, hence the over voltage warning. That's why it's important to get an actual voltage reading while the issue is happening. Take one right at the battery terminals for starters.
AMG technology is a little different, about 13 volts for a fully charged "12 volt" battery. Lithium iron (or ion) technology is higher still; maybe that's where the 13.8 volt number comes from. We've just started to use them in aircraft, so I'm not up on all the details.
Oh, typical operating voltage with a 12 volt battery is 14.0 - 14.7 volts. In ac we call them 14 volt systems, not 12 volts.
One thing to check is the ground reference for the voltage regulator. If it doesn't have a good ground but the generator does, then it may be thinking the voltage is lower than it really is, hence the over voltage warning. That's why it's important to get an actual voltage reading while the issue is happening. Take one right at the battery terminals for starters.
Last edited by John CC; May 23, 2021 at 12:38 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 5,801
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From: South Carolina
Hey BB... If you have already checked the voltage going into the battery while it is running and it was higher than 13.8, make sure you pull the battery and go have it tested somewhere...
My voltage regulator went bad, way bad and I just replaced it... And I got stranded with a dead cell in the battery on the side of the road... Sucked badly
My voltage regulator went bad, way bad and I just replaced it... And I got stranded with a dead cell in the battery on the side of the road... Sucked badly
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Seasoned HDF Member
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From: poway
I'm not sure where that number comes from. Flooded cell lead acid chemistry is good for a little more than 2.1 volts per cell open circuit, or about 12.7 volts for a 6 cell, "12 volt" battery. If you measure the voltage right after charging you might get a little more than 13 volts, but, that's ahat is called a surface charge and it will disappear as soon as you put a load n the battery.
AMG technology is a little different, about 13 volts for a fully charged "12 volt" battery. Lithium iron (or ion) technology is higher still; maybe that's where the 13.8 volt number comes from. We've just started to use them in aircraft, so I'm not up on all the details.
Oh, typical operating voltage with a 12 volt battery is 14.0 - 14.7 volts. In ac we call them 14 volt systems, not 12 volts.
One thing to check is the ground reference for the voltage regulator. If it doesn't have a good ground but the generator does, then it may be thinking the voltage is lower than it really is, hence the over voltage warning. That's why it's important to get an actual voltage reading while the issue is happening. Take one right at the battery terminals for starters.
AMG technology is a little different, about 13 volts for a fully charged "12 volt" battery. Lithium iron (or ion) technology is higher still; maybe that's where the 13.8 volt number comes from. We've just started to use them in aircraft, so I'm not up on all the details.
Oh, typical operating voltage with a 12 volt battery is 14.0 - 14.7 volts. In ac we call them 14 volt systems, not 12 volts.
One thing to check is the ground reference for the voltage regulator. If it doesn't have a good ground but the generator does, then it may be thinking the voltage is lower than it really is, hence the over voltage warning. That's why it's important to get an actual voltage reading while the issue is happening. Take one right at the battery terminals for starters.
As you say tho taillight could see 14V easy.
Good idea to make sure all connections are good. The big ones are the battery cables and the one that goes from the motor to the frame.
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HDF Community Team
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From: New Hampsha
The alternator should not be grounded by any means. It needs to be isolated.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: poway
An AC generator is called an alternator, but it is still an generator. I still use old school terminology sometimes. Old habits die hard...
That is correct, but, once the current passes through the regulator there is a negative and a positive conductor and the negative conductor eventually gets grounded. If the regulator ground and the rectifier ground are not electrically the same then generator (sorry, alternator) output that the battery and bus sees can be higher or lower than it is supposed to be. This is relatively common where you have a regulator separate from the alternator and rectifier.
That is correct, but, once the current passes through the regulator there is a negative and a positive conductor and the negative conductor eventually gets grounded. If the regulator ground and the rectifier ground are not electrically the same then generator (sorry, alternator) output that the battery and bus sees can be higher or lower than it is supposed to be. This is relatively common where you have a regulator separate from the alternator and rectifier.
But.
If it doesn't have a good ground but the generator does,
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