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Those are C0 clearance. You need C3 which will make the bearing cheaper. C0 is more for a precision spindle. More clearance means less chance of having axial preload issues.
Those are C0 clearance. You need C3 which will make the bearing cheaper. C0 is more for a precision spindle. More clearance means less chance of having axial preload issues.
Took me a minute, but here's the thread with the photo I posted comparing OE to All ***** to Timken. Based on what I posted then (back in 2015) I used the Timken 205PP bearings on my non-ABS '09.
Very informative, thanks guys! So, is Timken a brand of constructed bearing or the internal parts that other companies can use to produce a bearing? Also, what about the other letters that can follow RS? I've seen RS-JEM and several others. I really appreciate the info; this is one area of mechanics that I never worked in, so I don't know much.
I went with all ***** 2 years ago and can actually feel a slight vibration when cornering, left or right.. I will go with Timkens this winter..
I use a Pit Posse kit. Does 3/4, 1" and 25mm. Never an issue.. I paid a little over $100 for it..
Last edited by 98hotrodfatboy; Nov 5, 2022 at 05:27 PM.
I went with all ***** 2 years ago and can actually feel a slight vibration when cornering, left or right.. I will go with Timkens this winter..
I use a Pit Posse kit. Does 3/4, 1" and 25mm. Never an issue.. I paid a little over $100 for it..
That one will kill your bearings if you use the tool to seat the bearing all the way.. It places axial force on the bearing through the spacer. Bet you find the all ***** are damaged..
How many wheels have you done without issue?? Did you check to see if the bearings spun freely after the install?
I've done both my bikes and several of friends bikes.. I always check free wheel.. Maybe my spacer is to long.. I'll pay close attention this winter..
If you are simply spinning the wheel, you won't see it. You have a 25 inch heavy donut spinning on that bearing. You need to feel the ID of the bearing. I have a kit that came from someplace that made bunch HD special tools. Don't remember there name but they used installers like you have and they killed bearings.. Bearings would last less than one tire change. I had the mentality that the vendor made it, it must work.. It didn't.. If you can check with the guys you installed bearing for and see if they've got a bad attitude about wheel bearings..
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